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Thread: please show me factory/original/regular gap between

  1. #21
    Many times gaps are lost because body shops don't the factory tool for pulling the hinge pins, so they remove doors by unbolting the hinges.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    yep .... water pipe beaten into a suitable oval shape. Then notched to capture pin.....
    have used this for a few decades...
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  3. #23
    Bob
    We need some dimensions of this fine tool and how you actually use it.
    Very cool
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  5. #25
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    71Gold .... Abought a foot and 3/4...
    about this wide....
    the notch should not go any deeper than this. Because too deep would touch the car back in the area ...
    Mask off the pillar and the door in the general area you will be striking...
    I imagine if you had some of that liquid rubber that you dip handles into and you coated the end of the tool you would not need to worry about taping off...
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  6. #26
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    .... As to how to use ...
    Strike in the area were the yellow tape is...
    If you were going to improve this .
    Along with the rubber dip
    if you welded a "head" at the area of the yellow tape it would actually help transfer the energy down to the pin...
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  7. #27
    Senior Member HughH's Avatar
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    Hi Xavier
    I know I am late to the party on this AND you wanted original car gaps
    However I thought it worth showing you mine as the car has been back to bare metal (fenders off etc) AND both doors replaced (rust along lower edges - all about 22 years ago now

    I am very happy with the gaps and i think it shows what can be done - even after replacing the doors

    as others have said if your person cant do that or better get someone elseName:  IMG_1337.jpg
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    Last edited by HughH; 07-25-2021 at 06:17 PM. Reason: changed to 22 years ago not 12 how time flies :-(
    Hugh Hodges
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  8. #28
    Xavier Petit-Jean-Boret Xavier PJB's Avatar
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    Thank you Hugh, very helpful indeed (and very nice too)

    I challenged the body man, and I shall see the result end of next week - will see.
    I am not posting ugly pics of my fenders 'gap - that will give you nightmare for sure, but I can assure you that it is (was?) not like the pics shown here.

    Bob, thank the feet pic. that helps better understand feet versus metric.
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  9. #29
    Fortunately or unfortunately, I learned quickly why painting the car is about 5% of the body mans work, and prepping and fitting is about 95% of his work. My body man spent months on fitting, and re-fitting everything thing. If your shop isn’t asking for nearly every part from latches, to new door hinge pins, to test fitting the turn signals, rocker trim etc. before paint, then they really aren’t thorough with fit and finish.
    1969 911 E #824

  10. #30
    from my shabby and poor thinking ... I'm going through this (on another level obviously). I have bent pieces that I don't unfold because now I know that someone gave it that shape to make them square (I read a story once about a person who restored his 911, he was very careful with it and rectified almost all the pieces that were not straight. ride, we know what happens ...
    As you say in the comment above. The painting step is a joke compared to the preparation of the metal .... I suppose that after the metal work, applying the paint layer is something more "pleasant" than spending hours and hours adjusting screws to see if you can save hammer ! I am learning everything on the road but I can say little about the S and my car. The fin was welded to the body therefore I thought that this place was going to be very deformed. For my surprise. The pieces fit well in that place without leaving large spaces. But my car, in this case, does not count as an example xD

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