2.2 with Webers running rough, oil light...What is going on with this engine?

[Tremelune]

I just purchased a 1970 911T, and about an hour into my inaugural drive, the oil light came on. I pulled over and checked the oil (engine running at temp) and it was at about 3/4 dipstick.

Today I started it up and pressure was good. When the engine was cold, I pulled up the handbrake and the light came on. I put the handbrake down and the light went off. As the engine warmed, the light came back on. The druck press continues to register at least 10psi for every 1,000rpm, and at 5k RPM it was just over 60psi. The oil is pretty clean and green, so I assume it's PennGrade 20w50 semi-synthetic.

The engine has a pronounced shake at maybe 2,000-2,800rpm, under load or not. It does not like low revs (I'm not sure if this is related). Above 3,000rpm, it runs well, though not without a few farts and perhaps the occasional backfire (though it's rare when warm)...It's quite farty in general, but it seems happier at higher rpm and seems to pull to redline well. The car has a set of Weber carbs (that looked clean through the stacks) and a cracked plastic airbox with some extra speed holes put in it by a previous owner.

I'm much more familiar with a 3.2, and I'm a bit boggled by this oil light...I'm not sure where to start, and I'd really rather not pull the engine out of this car before I'm through the first tank of gas...Any insight would be appreciated! I got some video of the rough running and gauges:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6K_RAo5kmsQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okelhShI6uo

[Scott A]

for my thinking, for one thing:
the handbrake light is red....on the top of the druck gauge. (it is weird, but that is a little white image of a handbrake)

the lower red light is for the alternator/generator....and will come on if the engine is low rpm...lower than 1000.
in my mind...i cannot remember a light for the oil.

and my guess, for the shake, at over 2000 is the carbs, and the synchronization.....either with non-matching fuel amount, non-matching air, and most likely non-matching linkage.

the engine is easy to take out...but I like to get them running really well before I take them out...
a 912 engine you can start on the ground...with no extras.
but a 911 engine is hard to bench start, for the common man, you need electronics, oil tanks, and this and that...so for me easier in the car.

[bob joyce]

put in new plugs ..... then stand back and smile
and ,,,,,no it does not matter if they





























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[Arne]

Yeah, that is the brake warning light. Note the icon of a handbrake handle under the light. The word "Oil - " just below the brake icon has nothing to do with the light, it goes with the words "TEMP" and "PRESS" for the 2 gauges. There is no oil warning light in your car.

[Tremelune]

The best outcome to this would be my own ignorance. Rough running I can figure out...low oil pressure scares me.

I guess I should...jiggle the handbrake switch??

[Arne]

I guess I should...jiggle the handbrake switch??

That's my guess. Or disconnect the handbrake switch.

[66S]

I like to make sure the idle jets are not blocked first.

[Tremelune]

Well, I disconnected the Br/Y wire from the switch under the handbrake...and the light's still on...I think I just have a short to ground somewhere. In any event, now that it's just a parking brake light, it's not that big a deal either way...

Time to mess with these carbs and plugs.

[70SATMan]

Well, I disconnected the Br/Y wire from the switch under the handbrake...and the light's still on...I think I just have a short to ground somewhere. In any event, now that it's just a parking brake light, it's not that big a deal either way...

Time to mess with these carbs and plugs.

I've seen the brake switch wire pinched between the tunnel and the shifter plate,,

[zenithblue71T]

I like to make sure the idle jets are not blocked first.

Good idea. I found a tiny wire in mine once.