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Thread: 1967 911 Coupe - How to open engine lid or front boot if cable breaks or latch fails

  1. #1
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    1967 911 Coupe - How to open engine lid or front boot if cable breaks or latch fails

    Does any one know of a trick or special way to open front or back lids if the cable breaks or latch doesn't work? I've had issues with my engine latch during restoration where it would not open. Lucky I still had the grill off so could get in and remove bolts on latch. I'm getting ready to install the grill and get a little nervous.

    Any insight?
    Thanks,
    Don

  2. #2
    Senior Member moito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CA-Don View Post
    Does any one know of a trick or special way to open front or back lids if the cable breaks or latch doesn't work? I've had issues with my engine latch during restoration where it would not open. Lucky I still had the grill off so could get in and remove bolts on latch. I'm getting ready to install the grill and get a little nervous.

    Any insight?
    Thanks,
    Don
    if the cable breakes the hood pops open.
    but i in your case it is an adjustment issue...there is a thread about this ...actually many threads... many here experienced this--me included-since this nightmare the fuel tank always goes in after hood is installed and opens propperly.
    use the search function --top right on your screen

  3. #3
    Don
    the lid latches have a fail safe that allows the latch to default to open if the wire breaks.

    Before you even get close to shutting the lids disconnect the opening wire to watch (study) and get a full understanding of the the latch movement.

    If the latch is hung up and not opening:
    What you are experiencing is the latch pin is NOT centered in it's hole. The pin is off center and hanging up. The only method to get it to release is to move it to the center of the closing hole.
    Either rock the lid (bending) to flex the pin to unlatch (yes that is as bad as it sounds and bending the freshly painted body work should be avoided) - or - loop a wire (rope - cord) around the latch area to pull into the pin and then in the opposite direction to unlatch it. I will only close a newly installed latch if a cord is loosely taped around the shut panel in the event it sticks and needs to be shifted to center to release.

    Follow the method of putting tape over the closing hole and lower and JUST TAP to make a slight indent in the tape showing where the pin is in relation to being centered in the hole. Adjust the pin (or the whole plate) to move the pin till it centers. Note: a bent closing pin will double the pin movement from center when rotated 1/2 way around.

    Plan for it to hang up - cord up (getting proficient in tugging in the opposite direction is not a item added to our resume of talents but sure needed if you don't know how to correct a problem prior to shutting a newly installed lid).
    Bob
    Early S Reg #370

  4. #4
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    ^good advice here. when i was reassembling my car after paint, i did not have my latch correctly aligned and when i shut the hood i could not reopen it - it was really stuck. luckily i had not yet reinstalled the gas tank and was able to get to the latch from the backside through the gas tank opening. it took me some trial and error to get the latch correctly aligned and adjusted. i was certainly wondering how on earth i would have gotten the hood open if the gas tank was installed!
    Bill

    Early 911S Registry Member #4087
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  5. #5
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    Thank you all for your suggestions. I should have remembered about having to load the latch when installing the cable, that would have reminded me that with no tension on cable the latch is open.

    I'm getting ready to put the engine grill back on and got worried, what if the latch stuck.

    Hope and pray it never happens.

    Don

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