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Thread: Engine Broke 2.7 Post.

  1. #11
    Senior Member 62S-R-S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Cecil pa
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    811
    Quote Originally Posted by _gonbau View Post
    stupid to ask but... with the isbn (number of the book) could I go to a bookstore on my island and have them order it for me? If you don't use amazon 30

    I can't pay 3 times what the book costs for shipping...


    • USPS Priority Express
      $86.75
    • USPS Intl Priority
      $46.99

    https://ebay.com/itm/194448345198?ep...kAAOSwDo1hbaKI

  2. #12
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
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    3,936
    Whatever the cause, you are going to have to take the engine apart.
    Bruces book is great, but Wayne's book gives clearer instructions for a rebuild. However, my recommendation is that you send it to someone who knows what they are doing and has access to competent machine shops.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  3. #13
    I'm going to buy the book, and I'll get my hands on it to disassemble it. My intention is to disassemble cylinder heads and from there to be able to see the crankshaft. Once I'm at this point and without fully "opening" I'll decide if it's worth having the mechanic work on it. A reconstruction of this type of engine... how much money could it take? 10/15K? What work could I do (disassembly or whatever) that is "simple" in order to lower costs? These days I will buy the motor support... I will try to see the book in bookstores and if not I will buy it in amazon! This is decided ... If anyone wants to give me advice or think of things to try on the engine. I'm your boy! I can post videos of anything! And RS/62s thanks for the advice! The mechanic "doesn't have much enthusiasm" to open this engine... So the way I think is still to buy another rebuilt engine! But equally, we want to see the state of this and repair it over time if it is repairable.

    +

    ummm I tried but they don't send to the Canary Islands from that link. A shame because it's extremely cheap...
    +
    I have removed the plastic casing. So far all the screws have come out fine. When I take them off I put them back in place. The idea is to lighten weight and this week buy the motor mount. I have also removed the top and bottom covers. The screws came out fine too! The next step when you have engine support will be to remove the exhaust manifolds.
    Last edited by _gonbau; 05-21-2022 at 06:53 AM.

  4. #14

  5. #15
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    I have loosened the two nuts...these days I will upload it to the workbench or support...I don't know what to call it.
    To remove the second nut... I had to disassemble the tensioner... Pass the wrench and reassemble the tensioner to block and loosen it. I thought it would be a much more complicated job. 20 minutes to my surprise

    +

    where the wrench is located, when disassembling the "pinions" I found a large, deformed metal washer. I understand that it will not "have" to do with the "axial clearance" but .... if it is a symptom.
    +
    the "rusting" nuts have come off easily on that same side.
    +

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    Last edited by _gonbau; 05-23-2022 at 01:11 PM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
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    1,161
    Many shops charge $20-30k for a rebuild. Parts and labor.
    A part isn't purchased until paid.

    914-6Werkshop.com

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by _gonbau View Post
    ...when disassembling the "pinions" I found a large, deformed metal washer. I understand that it will not "have" to do with the "axial clearance" but .... if it is a symptom...
    The washer is deformed by design, to help prevent the nut from coming loose.
    You will need special tools to re-install the cam nuts properly. You will also have to re-set the camshaft timing.

    Jon B.
    Vista, CA

  8. #18
    I know, I mean... I know that I don't take care with the camshaft when disassembling since it is intended to disassemble the entire engine. It depends on the state, it will be sent to the mechanic to be assembled... In the same way I am still looking for 2.7L engines. The next thing I will do tomorrow will be to remove the rocker arm tower... My intention is to get to the piston. Once there, remove it and observe "superficially" the crankshaft. Your advice is valued! And thanks for the information on the washer...

  9. #19
    I have removed one of the complete heads. The pistons are dirty, but they are fine. I keep observing the axial movement. I put the cylinder closest to the rear of the engine in the position furthest from the block...I make the movement and it is observed how there is movement in that cylinder....I repeat the same process with the piston next to it. I don't see movement. IS IT PARTY AT THAT POINT? Or can it be due to another cause? I will remove the pistons to be able to observe better....
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    I have removed two pistons. The ones closest to the exhaust part on the left side. I'll take out the third one and I'll put "elastic".
    I don't see much interest in this post so I won't "load" the system with "many photos"...

    I have also removed the studs from the front part to be able to raise it to the support... I intend to use the generic support now that the motor weighs little. The asparagus gives me little confidence... Are the motors really held with the official support on two asparagus?
    Last edited by _gonbau; 05-24-2022 at 09:05 AM.

  10. #20
    To separate the crankcase, it cannot be mounted to an engine stand on both sides.
    Be very careful when removing the large sensor above the right chain housing, so that you don't crack or break off the attachment area on the case.

    Jon B.
    Vista, CA

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