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Thread: Engine Broke 2.7 Post.

  1. #101
    Quote Originally Posted by HughH View Post
    I agree
    so far the more you have looked into your engine the more issues that have arisen- it is certainly anything but what you thought it to be and there appears to be poor workmanship leading to the failure - however it could be worse than just poor workmanship - it could be a poorly conceived engine rebuild design /choice of spec so even if you replicated it it may have the same underlying issues
    if you are not careful you will be replacing a great majority of the parts - at a much higher cost in the end than biting the bullet and buying a running one that is almost "plug and play"
    That is what worries us the most... not having found a modification and not knowing exactly why it broke... Assembling everything and breaking again. For now we have only ordered the parts for the heads...Nothing that closes the way between one thing or another and I am more inclined to buy another engine... We will value it again! And we'll see it...
    Is there any history of type AT* motors that have been misconfigured or "by the factory"? I mean...there is a history of poorly assembled motors at the factory...but reassembling a part of that motor and it being wrong again...if I think about it. Maybe it fits the story. My father says he bought the engine when the previous owner was testing it because it made a noise. The engine at that time would be "NEW" and already had a little noise (observing the chain casings you can see that one of them is scratched) product of that little noise that the previous owner complained or product of the breakage of our engine? I don't know... but there would be some way to reassemble this motor, right? once mounted can not checks without starting it? From my point of view it doesn't matter to assemble and disassemble... But I don't want to discard an engine because I don't understand it. That does not mean that it will make our engine but over time if in the end we decide to buy a new engine.
    Last edited by _gonbau; 07-21-2022 at 12:22 PM.

  2. #102
    we have bought a second hand crankshaft... STD measurements. for prices... I still need 5/6k in pieces to have everything... little by little.

  3. #103
    IMG_20220905_135511.jpg
    I will attach more images to the arrival at my house of the heads made! There were two bent valves! one exhaust and one input, I'm happy with what they have done! I would also say that it has entered within a good price! I will attach the work done in detail later but it is the one mentioned above, seats, valves, guides!... assembly and decarbonization!

  4. #104
    IMG_20220905_202652.jpgIMG_20220905_202815.jpgIMG_20220905_201954.jpgIMG_20220905_202731.jpg

    I have several questions.... I would like to degrease these parts a little better. Now that the dirt is loose, could I hit it with the water pressure gun? Or would it not be advisable at all to touch these pieces now that they are assembled? On the other hand, I would like to ask about the hardness of the magnesium of the block in front of one of these water pistols... I understand that you should not hit it close... but, can these casings break with these things? In the next few weeks I would like to go through the cleaning process and I don't know if the pressure gun would be the next step
    Last edited by _gonbau; 09-05-2022 at 01:58 PM.

  5. #105
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    1,212
    There shouldn’t be grease and dirt on freshly built heads but definitely don’t pressure wash them.
    A part isn't purchased until paid.

    914-6Werkshop.com

  6. #106
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    3,998
    The pressure won't hurt the block, but the water will, if the block is open. Sealing surfaces on the heads look a bit dirty, once assembled I don't know how you would clean them. The valve stem has some grime too.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  7. #107
    Quote Originally Posted by mepstein View Post
    There shouldn’t be grease and dirt on freshly built heads but definitely don’t pressure wash them.
    Okay, I needed that precision in the answer! I'll try to see what I can play with that doesn't degrade the rubber!

  8. #108
    Quote Originally Posted by RSTarga View Post
    The pressure won't hurt the block, but the water will, if the block is open. Sealing surfaces on the heads look a bit dirty, once assembled I don't know how you would clean them. The valve stem has some grime too.
    umm I'll try to clean with some kind of steel wool?... I'll cover the valves well in the upper part... At this point I would also like to ask the typical gasoline test on the head to confirm its tightness is ruled out right? If it had a leak, it could break "the rubber"... in the same way, if it had a leak, I should disassemble that head, correct? The valves in the position in which they are mounted right now... Should they completely close the orifice for this test with gasoline?
    Regarding the block... I will continue with the cleaning by hand!
    IMG_20220905_202809.jpgIMG_20220905_202742.jpgIMG_20220905_202809.jpgIMG_20220905_201651.jpgIMG_20220905_201427.jpgIMG_20220905_201354.jpg
    some are cleaner than others but I think that with patience I can leave them well and without leaving residues! Tomorrow I will post some more detailed photos since I have not examined them in depth! Today has been a somewhat "moved" day.
    +
    IMG_20220905_135455.jpgIMG_20220905_201331.jpgIMG_20220906_124533.jpgIMG_20220906_124527.jpg

    I realized that I have not told because in the end we decided on the path of repair. In previous comments I have expressed my fear of not having found the reason for the failure, the remounting and breaking again... I was able to clear this doubt by doing a little memory. The vehicle...the engine, worked fine for over 10 years. Being a "new" engine. I would say that it left the factory in 1980. It worked from the moment it arrived on this island until it broke perfectly. So in my thoughts I was able to clear up the doubt of "bad tuning" and direct the breakage to a bad adjustment here on the island. My father always told me that this engine was that of a 2.7 S. Far from reality, perhaps the mechanic did not check the stickers that were on the engine and was guided by my father's words. I would like to ask clearly. What damage would occur on a vehicle that fits like an S when it isn't...? "slight" mark on pistons from overtaking? Or should there be more damage...?
    +
    I would also like to ask another thing... When they give you a replacement of an engine like this case. Is it possible that they changed the "chassis" also? I have to verify the papers of the vehicle where the engine came from but would you say that the "German traffic" sheet indicated that the vehicle was from the 80s?
    I also want to write here... I feel "quite" sorry for not having been able to do the valve work myself... Maybe in another time...

    +

    I would like to ask how to check the closure of the valves...In the book I read that it says Paint thinner?
    Last edited by _gonbau; 09-11-2022 at 10:37 AM.

  9. #109
    I would like to, as usual...ask a silly question.....The screws that join the two halves of the block (x11). To close the block... Do they have to be new or can they be reused?
    Do you think it's a good idea that I focus my economy on closing the block? I want that more than buying the pistons and liners... I understand, could I mount the pistons with the block already closed...?

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