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Thread: Engine Broke 2.7 Post.

  1. #41
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Wilmington, DE
    Posts
    1,403
    You should read an engine rebuilding book before you buy anything.
    A part isn't purchased until paid.

    The 9 Store LLC.

  2. #42
    You definitely need the services of a machine shop. First thing I would do if the shop says it looks good visually would be to have the cases and rods magna-fluxed to see if there are any tiny cracks.
    1969 911S
    1969 Datsun 2000...worth less, but more valuable

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Theunz View Post
    You definitely need the services of a machine shop. First thing I would do if the shop says it looks good visually would be to have the cases and rods magna-fluxed to see if there are any tiny cracks.
    This comment is good for me, the idea is not to buy anything yet (for that I need a lot of learning) but to get some idea. Check the casing by the method that you indicate... How much does it cost in your country? I think that is the point where to start

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by 72targa View Post
    I truly appreciate your enthusiasm. We all have to start somewhere. Do you have access to a machine shop?
    Yes! here are some good turners who have worked on porsche engines!! the intention is to verify the block and supports.

  5. #45
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    4,261
    Most here send the block off to a qualified machine shop used to dealing with these engines for inspection, rods too. There a good shop will clean and evaluate, most line bore and shuffle pin on these mag cases. Lots of work on these older cases.
    Have you labeled your rods, pistons and cylinders?
    It may be myth, but not a good idea to keep the halves apart for long.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  6. #46
    I have not disassembled the connecting rods yet, the pistons if I have them marked along with their shirts! we are evaluating workshops but I am stuck at the point of looking at a new crankshaft. In theory... what should I do? buy one "that is more or less good", take it to review and then put oversized bushings? in basic theory... all this I am expanding so it is not to buy neither today nor tomorrow etc... with respect to having it open!! Okay, I try to keep it greased and covered but I have no doubt that having it open for a long time is bad! I'm going to seriously investigate who can do a job of this type here or on the peninsula

  7. #47
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    4,261
    Tienden a deformarse si no se mantienen atornilladas las mitades del block.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  8. #48
    IMG_20220530_191733.jpgIMG_20220530_191824.jpgIMG_20220530_192025.jpgIMG_20220530_192047.jpgIMG_20220530_202924.jpgIMG_20220530_205838.jpgIMG_20220530_210509.jpgIMG_20220530_192212.jpg

    I have labeled the cylinders and pistons and I have also labeled the two connecting rods that I have removed. Remove the two that "supposedly ran out of lubrication" one of them the one closest to the break has a broken bushing. I understand...it was the cause of the friction when the crankshaft continued to rotate
    on the other hand... are those edges of fatigue?
    the skirts of all the pistons are "perfect"

  9. #49
    Next week the engine is going to the mechanic. He told me to upload the heads apart from the "engine". The heads are fine but I would like to ask... obviously they have to be treated, right? Observing our engine and not seeing more damage than the crankshaft and the wrists etc... what work should be done to the heads? Rectified even if they had no losses?

  10. #50
    considerations of the mechanic after seeing the engine in his workshop. The "shirts" and the pistons look good, however he recommends the change. Is it necessary? He told me that these cannot be rectified due to the material from which they were made, although they could be seen with a few "kilometers". He recommends that I do head work. Valves etc...a complete job on each of them and also check the cams...I would like to ask. These works fall under the "standard" of repairs right? They are works that I think are necessary but I would like to hear opinions... I would also like to know what price is around the work of the heads. Rectified etc...regarding the crankshaft, he tells me that with the measurements he has, talk to the grinding machine and check if it is suitable before buying. What should I look for when buying a crankshaft other than scratches? depths? If yta has been rectified before?
    pistones.jpg
    Last edited by _gonbau; 06-14-2022 at 10:16 AM.

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