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Thread: How to best install engine - tips wanted

  1. #1

    How to best install engine - tips wanted

    Looking for tips on the engine install. I do have a 4 post lift.

    Also, should I install the heat exchangers first?
    I assume the engine sheet metal should be installed first
    Anything else before install?

    Thanks
    1971 911S Coupe - Gemini Blue
    1974 914 2.0 - Sunflower Yellow
    1974 Alfa Romeo GTV 2000
    1975 914 1.8 - Light Ivory

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Yes , heat exchangers and engine tin first . Try to be sure things in the engine compartment such as fuel lines are complete , easier with the engine out . I like to use an extension to tighten and torque the CV bolts from outside with the rear wheels off and something in the rotor vents against the calipers to stop the axle turning .

  3. #3
    Simon

    I recently did a one-man engine install in my '70E. I used a 1,000 lb Harbor Freight lift table. Easiest install I ever did. PM or call me if you would like some more details or if you would like to borrow the lift table.
    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E

  4. #4
    Member
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    A few notes, depending on your year and transmission -- these may be of use:

    • Hooking up the starter cables is easier if you do it when the engine is about halfway up. Hooking up the starter wires when the motor is fully seated was one of my most curse-filled episodes.
    • If you have a mechanical speedo you cannot easily re-attach the cable with the trans cross mount in place. So either lift the trans without the cross piece, or get the motor/trans in place, support the trans, remove the support, attach the tach cable and boot, then re-attach the cross piece.
    • Some 915 clutch cables have to go through a hanging loop by the front nose of the transmission. Far easier to slide the cable through this loop as you start to lift the motor and trans. Getting the bolt/nut installed around the clutch cable with all the other stuff around the bellcrank (heater cable, parking brake cable, fuel lines, etc.) is a royal PIA.
    • Thread the 2 large transmission mount bolts BEFORE you snug up the 4 bolts on the transmission as they are finer threads and can be cross threaded rather easily. This is not fun to fix with everything in the car.
    • Personally, I find removing the rear axles completely makes the drop / reinstall much easier and less messy. Otherwise it seems I keep fighting the axles, getting grease on everything, etc. You just have to get new inner and outer cv flange gaskets (if your car has them).
    • Double check that your release fork is properly seated in the throwout bearing when you mount the trans to the motor. If it isn't, you will be doing this whole procedure all over again.
    Last edited by TheTorch; 09-27-2021 at 06:47 AM. Reason: typos
    - 1969 911T Ossi Blue #3981

  5. #5
    Member Bahman's Avatar
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    Jan 2021
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    Greensboro NC
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheTorch View Post
    A few notes, depending on your year and transmission -- these may be of use:

    • Hooking up the starter cables is easier if you do it when the engine is about halfway up. Hooking up the starter wires when the motor is fully seated was one of my most curse-filled episodes.
    • If you have a mechanical speedo you cannot easily re-attach the cable with the trans cross mount in place. So either lift the trans without the cross piece, or get the motor/trans in place, support the trans, remove the support, attach the tach cable and boot, then re-attach the cross piece.
    • Some 915 clutch cables have to go through a hanging loop by the front nose of the transmission. Far easier to slide the cable through this loop as you start to lift the motor and trans. Getting the bolt/nut installed around the clutch cable with all the other stuff around the bellcrank (heater cable, parking brake cable, fuel lines, etc.) is a royal PIA.
    • Thread the 2 large transmission mount bolts BEFORE you snug up the 4 bolts on the transmission as they are finer threads and can be cross threaded rather easily. This is not fun to fix with everything in the car.
    • Personally, I find removing the rear axles completely makes the drop / reinstall much easier and less messy. Otherwise it seems I keep fighting the axles, getting grease on everything, etc. You just have to get new inner and outer cv flange gaskets (if your car has them).
    • Double check that your release fork is properly seated in the throwout bearing when you mount the trans to the motor. If it isn't, you will be doing this whole procedure all over again.
    Excellent points; we’ll thought out. I learned these the hard way over 35-yr ownership of my ‘72E.
    1972 911E Targa, Mostly Original
    2002 Porsche 996 C4 Cabriolet
    2005 Turbo-converted MINI Cooper S

  6. #6
    Other's experience may differ, but I'd think a 4 post storage lift (vs. a 2 post asymetrical service lift) is not going to afford easy access...lots of things on a 4 post storage lift to get in the way. The job with a 2 post lift, floor jack lift table (best option) makes this job an easy task.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Scott A's Avatar
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    I use a technique, by myself....
    With the rear wheels off, with the engine and tranny together on a low wheeled wood and carpet dolly, I lower the rear of the car over the engine that is sitting low on the dolly. It cannot fall off a jack, and I have immense control, to go super slow, and I never have to lift a thing.
    The last time I did it was 2 weeks after neck surgery, by myself, with no pains or troubles.
    I take the engine out the same way...in about one hour. by myself.

    I do use a really long extension to take out the half shaft bolts...and use an air gun to remove. That's a really big time saver.
    Last edited by Scott A; 09-28-2021 at 11:53 AM.
    6

  8. #8
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    how

    ScottA....I can see how the rear engine mounts would be no problem ... but it seems that it would not be high enough to stab the trans mount bolts . Am i missing something or is there a method.
    I am assuming that the height of the trans mount area would only be higher than the stock operating height of the car (with engine and trans installed) by a few inches?

  9. #9
    Here is how it can be done with a drive on lift.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E

  10. #10
    Senior Member Scott A's Avatar
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    Bob, I can't quite remember the details around the trans bolts....but I do remember it was super easy. I never struggled with any part in the process. I did have to lay on my back some, I think....but I don't mind resting on the ground, now and then.
    It was the way I took the engine out....and it was so easy, I put it back in the same way. (all done with a small floor jack, two stands, and the dolly thing).
    It all started trying to lower the whole car engine area onto a low dolly (maybe 4 or 5 inches tall), with the rear wheels off...
    the car turns into a major low-rider...with no rear wheels on....the rear brake disc touch the floor, depending on the dolly.

    I watched people use blocks, and cross their fingers...I've watched an engine fall off of two floor jacks. and I wasn't in physical shape to have anything go wrong, so i had this idea to leave the engine low so it couldn't fall.
    6

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