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Thread: ‘72 911T Door Pockets Restoration

  1. #11
    member #1515
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    Quote Originally Posted by LiveFromNY View Post
    I haven't peeled back the vinyl to check the Porsche Classic pockets. I assumed they were some kind of fiberboard but could be wrong.

    There ARE repros out there made of various plastics/fiberglass. But they suck. So there's always that option.

    You stateside, David? Or down south? You should stop by the shop when you're around. Lots of new toys.
    I’ll be there for HCR, probably a week before. I’ll check in.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  2. #12
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    What’s the issue with the plastic versions? Are the not the right size/shape? Not covered in the correct materials and trim? Some other issues?

  3. #13
    As I said earlier, I think the plastic repros are fine for a driver caliber car, they replicate the original in size, material covering and shape, but don't deform over time. , ,
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  4. #14
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    Good to know an option is out there if I can’t save my originals.

  5. #15
    Had the same issues on both sides, heat and patience brought it back in line. Made a simple support for the tear as the cord tension accelerated the damage and the corner needed better support. May not be concours approved but only original once and allowed for a good fit on the door panel/armrest. Name:  38F359C0-D27C-482D-B4E9-FD59F69B806B.jpg
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  6. #16
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    Looks good Chris!

  7. #17
    Senior Member 911kiwi's Avatar
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    Having had success in reshaping 3 sets of door pockets, I can vouch for the “heat gun” method.
    If the alu trim is in good order, leave it on. If it’s mis-shaped or bent then remove it as it will affect the final shape.
    Place the pocket on bench, vinyl side up with a piece of 1” x 3” wooden baton (at least the length of the pocket itself) resting on top, aligned with the top edge and clamps at each end, loosely attached.
    Use heat gun to carefully & evenly heat the pocket from the inside (keep it moving to prevent scorching the flocking) with back of hand resting of top of vinyl. Heat until you can’t keep your hand on top.
    Tighten the clamps until the outer pocket edge is as parallel to the inner edge as the shape of the pocket will allow, & leave until completely cold.
    Done! Repeat as necessary to fine tune to perfection! Name:  EBB06D76-F740-4CEC-9626-6F4CAD12B5E4.jpg
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    Kiwi
    1972 911S
    1967 912
    1959 356A Conv D
    Early S Registry # 306

  8. #18
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
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    Great look'n job Gary !!!
    Chuck Miller
    Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
    R Gruppe #88

    TYP901 #62
    '73S cpe #1099 - Matched # 2.7/9.5 RS spec rebuild
    '67 Malibu 327 spt cpe - Period 350 Rebuild

    ’98 Chevy S-10 – Utility
    ’15 GTI – Commuter

  9. #19
    Senior Member 911kiwi's Avatar
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    Thanks Chuck! Getting better with practise!
    Additional comments: I feel that introducing steam swells & weakens the material. Applying direct heat like an iron, risks serious damage. Heat gun is very controllable!
    Last edited by 911kiwi; 12-08-2021 at 01:49 PM. Reason: Add text.
    Kiwi
    1972 911S
    1967 912
    1959 356A Conv D
    Early S Registry # 306

  10. #20
    aka techweenie Eminence Gris's Avatar
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    The common problem for front & rear pockets is sagging in front of & behind the hinges. Unless corrected, the top edge of the folding pocket sits too far below the armrest, even when all the ajdustment is used up in the hinges. Solution I've used is steaming.
    techweenie.com

    My parts fetcher: 2016 Tesla S | Currently building: 73 RSR tribute and 69 RS tribute

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