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Thread: Bonding metal to avoid paint damage

  1. #1

    Bonding metal to avoid paint damage

    So I decided to replace my carpet and after striping the inside, found a patch of rust at the parcel shelf, talking to one of the sheet metal suppliers re replacing the parcel shelf and not damaging the paint- I don’t want to splice it or cut and patch even though it’s covered. He mentioned some are using a bonding agent where heat would be allied and damage the paint (rear section close to the back window mount point) has anyone here dealt with that?

    Thanks

    Rex
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  2. #2
    Senior Member 911quest's Avatar
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    I replaced this panel on a 912 once using a combination of plug welds and panel bond. The paint on the 912 was a 5 out of 10 so not much of a loss if I damaged the paint. The hardest part is clamping the panel in the rear to the body with out damaging the paint.

    If you decide to attempt it you will have to remove the rear glass.
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    Tony Proasi

    52 split window coupe

  3. #3
    Thanks for sharing Tony

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Are you sure the rust is only on the parcel shelf. Usually when you dig in you will find more. - Just did it on my car.
    A part isn't purchased until paid.

    The 9 Store LLC.

  5. #5
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    there is/was a "putty" called moistbestose.
    You would wet it (if it was not already wet in the can) and place it around the area you want to protect.
    you can weld right up to it.

  6. #6
    To remove it correctly you’re going to have the drill out spot welds and do some grinding and reshaping of the flange. If you’re prepared for that though the stuff to use plus 3m 08116, you’ll need a special “caulk style” gun to apply it but once you do it won’t go anywhere. The trick is to have the panel sit flat, on its own, under its own weight, and line up where it needs to be. You don’t want to try to use it like actual caulk, filling in gaps and so on.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by mepstein View Post
    Are you sure the rust is only on the parcel shelf. Usually when you dig in you will find more. - Just did it on my car.
    The typical path is leaks at the bottom of the rear window seals due to age/cracked seals. That water pools up in the corners of the hat shelf. Then it runs down the rear quarter seams to the rear seat pans. You can follow the water like a road map. It would be prudent to look further.
    1969 911 E #824

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by xpensivewino View Post
    The typical path is leaks at the bottom of the rear window seals due to age/cracked seals. That water pools up in the corners of the hat shelf. Then it runs down the rear quarter seams to the rear seat pans. You can follow the water like a road map. It would be prudent to look further.
    Agreed.

    I have the complete carpet removed and all insulation is out. My issue is more at the folded seem where water hit that 1/8 -1/4 inch layered folded metal seem before running down to the back seats. I might just purchase the panel and go up 4 inches and seem welded in.

  9. #9
    We ended up splicing in instead of replacing. Keeping all the good original metal.
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