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Thread: Media blast or acid dip?

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  1. #1
    Senior Member matteo68's Avatar
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    Media blast or acid dip?

    My donor T shell (which is in generally excellent condition throughout) is shortly due to be media blasted and all shutz scraped off by hand but we are also considering acid dipping the shell as a cheaper and quicker alternative with the added benefit of total coverage, and then after several rinses, applying an e-coat after the metalwork has been completed and new panels fitted.

    However before we make a decision, I would be grateful for any advice from those who have actually done both firsthand (as opposed to anecdotal advice) in terms of pros and cons of each method and particular things to watch out for.

    Also, are there any other methods for stripping back to bare metal worth considering?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by matteo68; 05-13-2022 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Additional info added
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  2. #2
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    Hi Matt, i opted for blasting, Kirk had his dipped. I am sure he will be along shortly with his opinion. Everyone i know who has dipped said they wouldn't choose that path again. In my eye's it always seems to be the dealers/ restorers who champion the acid dip route

    Once the 12 month defect warranty expires will they rectify any yellowing of your paint a few years down the line.??

  3. #3
    umm i would say sand before acid. The acid is good for small pieces of specific things... I know that cars are washed well afterwards, but if it stays inside a pillar or in a seam a little... it will stay... in a few years you will have more serious rust what we are trying to clean up. believe....

  4. #4
    Senior Member H-viken's Avatar
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    We used hydroblast on the bottom of mine. Worked very well.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member matteo68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stretch View Post
    Hi Matt, i opted for blasting, Kirk had his dipped. I am sure he will be along shortly with his opinion. Everyone i know who has dipped said they wouldn't choose that path again. In my eye's it always seems to be the dealers/ restorers who champion the acid dip route

    Once the 12 month defect warranty expires will they rectify any yellowing of your paint a few years down the line.??
    Thanks Dave.

    I’ve pinged Kirk a message on WhatsApp to see who he used and what he thought of it, especially as it’s been a few years now since he had it done, passage of time being the true test.

    However, sounds like E-Coat is used by all the major manufacturers in various guises, including Porsche Classic with their cathode dip, so there must be a general consensus in the industry that this is the way to go.
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    72 T Coupe 210 2176 (donor car for M491 2.5 SR)
    '72 S Coupe 230 0347 (2-owner tangerine unicorn)

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    There billion pound operations Matt. I doubt an outfit in an old industrial unit in the back street of the north can get all the acid residue out with a karcher.

  7. #7
    Senior Member matteo68's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stretch View Post
    There billion pound operations Matt. I doubt an outfit in an old industrial unit in the back street of the north can get all the acid residue out with a karcher.
    Yep, accept that Dave, but several fully-submerged rinses should reach all the areas the acid reached? (Heineken-style?)
    ESR #4098
    72 T Coupe 210 2176 (donor car for M491 2.5 SR)
    '72 S Coupe 230 0347 (2-owner tangerine unicorn)

  8. #8
    the rust in many cases has a crust. If this crust only reaches an immersion of acid... Even if you rinse several times the acid will have gotten into that crust. In time it will come out... I think. Working internal parts with acid is complicated. Try a small piece. Leave a crust of rust and apply some "that acid" I guess phosphoric. Then, after the acid bath, rinse it as many times as you want and leave it to air. You will see how it continues to stain with rust or... how it continues to rust in a "faster" way

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