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Thread: Lessons learned from your hot rod build?

  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    1970rsr explained to me it has baffles to keep the fuel from sloshing around and easier to add a return line. I already modified my early tank so if I need to massage the return fitting, I will. The fuel fill is not through the hood but I did remove the fender fuel fill just to smooth out the front end. I’ve had a 914 since I was 16 so opening the trunk to fill isn’t a problem for me.
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    The 9 Store LLC.

  2. #12
    Thanks Mark.

    Won't a later G-body t=fuel tank drop right in with the correct fittings etc?

  3. #13
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    Just go buy a 100L Danks with baffles. They are great! Look better and hold 26 gallons. They cost $750.00.
    72S, 72T now ST

  4. #14
    Senior Member Warm Tea's Avatar
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    Scott,
    will a full size spare fit with the new 100L Danske tank??
    Thx,
    Phil
    69 Bahama T
    S Reg# 2753

  5. #15
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    Sure will.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warm Tea View Post
    Scott,
    will a full size spare fit with the new 100L Danske tank??
    Thx,
    Phil
    72S, 72T now ST

  6. #16
    Senior Member Warm Tea's Avatar
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    Much appreciated Scott!
    69 Bahama T
    S Reg# 2753

  7. #17
    Senior Member 62S-R-S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tdskip View Post
    I have a full wiring harness for the 3.2, will use a Steve Wong chip.
    ..Just for browsing

    There are probably a lot of reasons to like motronic, but is that the induction you really want including wiring loom and sensors ? I think the real achievement would be to scrap motronic in favor of ITB's or the like. Not to rain on a parade, but they are kind of known for having a flat torque curve, and not much happening over 5000.

  8. #18
    Good morning, thanks for the consideration. My 1974 has a 3.2L with a Steve Wong chip and 964 cams. Fantastic engine. That said the induction noise is a bit muted although I built that one for long distance touring so it works.

    Going to the experience of getting an ATV set up on one of the cars is definitely on the punch list of things I would like to do.

  9. #19
    Senior Member NickP's Avatar
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    My “hot rod” 72 911 ST was finished in 2017 and was expertly built by Scott Longballa along with many other great vendors in our community. We followed the original ethos of the ST and because ST’s were all a little different as they evolved through the years this allowed us the freedom to make aesthetic choices to create a car that was my own. I installed a 2.5L high compression twin plug motor (MFI), Scott’s favored suspension set up (18mm sways), 21/26 TB’s, rubber bushings etc. True to form, the car uses a scant amount of sound deadening or undercoating, rubber floor mats, replica Recaro race bucket seats and 4 point RePa harnesses. The car rides on TB 15 tires wrapped around 8 & 9 x 15” Fuchs and weighs in at 2240 lbs. The result is a car that is awesome on the track where it feels like its most at home. Its a bit underpowered but the handling (thanks to Scott) is sublime. It’s also loud, raw and pretty uncomfortable around town. Back country canyon rounds are great as long as its not too hot. Again, the seats are great at Chuckwalla but they fatigue my back after a few hours. I love the car, but after 5 years I’m making some changes to make it meet my needs more. That’s the fun and beauty of owning a hot rod; you can easily change things as your needs (and age) change. I get 2-3 days a years on the track but a ton of time on longer canyon runs and drives so I’m evolving the car.

    Currently, we are building a 3.5L EFI motor with ITB’s and a MoTec ECU. More power, easy starting, and tunability will be the result. I also bought a sweet set of replica Recaro sport seats that will add a bunch of weight but my back will thank me. I may also upgrade the carpeting from rubber mats to carpets and even install some sound deadening stuff. Depending on funds, 16” wheels made to replicate the look of the 15” Fuchs might be in order so open up some tire choices. The TB 15’s last at 7000 miles. I’m also considering the electric AC system but I’m not convinced that the results are great and it’s a pretty costly/complex endeavor from what I’ve read.

    My advice is to really think about how you’ll be using the car and go from there. I’m very happy with the car we built 5 years ago (it took 4 years to complete, BTW) but I’m also looking forward to the next hot-rod chapter.
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    Last edited by NickP; 08-06-2022 at 04:05 PM.
    Nick Psyllos
    S Reg & R Gruppe
    1973 Euro 911S
    1972 911T to ST

  10. #20
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    Agree with many of the points previously raised, particularly Nick's that you build a car to its intended purpose and Scott's implicit point about suspension (and rubber bushings!). I don't know how many of my posts on here have said it, but the best upgrade you can do to your longhood is the suspension and tires. Any car that is driven mildly aggressively should have sway bars and bump up to the 930 torsion bars (plus the turbo tie rods/bump steer standard stuff). The stock S suspension and 930 torsion bars is a very civilized ride, it gets better beyond that, but then you start to get bounced around on crappy pavement.

    On the engine, recognizing that the 3.2 is already in hand, is there any reason folks like the 3.0 and later engines? I have a 2.7 RS and 2.8 with e cams and I would take the 2.7 RS engine any day. It has enough low-end torque to drive lazily around town and pass anyone that needs passing from 3k, but nothing is more addictive than an early S engine coming on cam. The 2.8 is fast enough, but feels like a more modern engine, and quite frankly, I'd be fine without it. Admittedly I very rarely encounter a stop-light, or many other cars when I am driving around because I'm fairly rural, but the attraction of driving these things is keeping them up above 4500.

    I'm surprised you're allowed to track a car with the four-point harnesses mounted on the shelf. Harnesses are fantastic, but we have to have six point mounted to a bar (plus, I like the safety of a bar, and hans). That said, I have driven long distances in my profi spgs and they are extremely comfortable buckets (I have three point friction belts mounted too).

    Admittedly a function of the engine, and probably reflective of the above, but Webers or MFI have been much more enjoyable than ITBs. Yes, the throttle response of ITBs is impressive, but is anyone really driving a 50-year old car to have knife-edge throttle response? Nothing beats the sound of carbs, and nothing beats the combined sound and throttle response of MFIs. Not to denigrate all of the magical things that can be done with these cars, but they are antiques. Admittedly amazing antiques, but I'll take the sound of a weber open full throttle over the twitchy responsiveness of ITBs any day.

    Finally, don't overlook the wheels/tires, because they really make the car. My targa is open-air and when I am driving it on rural back roads, it feels like dancing - partly do to the 185s and partly due to the thin grip of the 914/RS steering wheel. The coupe is loud, nasty, and dirty and it takes work to drive hard, and handles like it is on rails. Both "hot rods," both early 911s, but totally different cars that scratch very different itches.
    MBR #3926
    '71 911 T Targa "Rick White"
    '71 911 E "Karen"
    '70 S/T
    '16 CD
    '10 E61 "Vomit Comet"

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