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Thread: Dent Puller Advice

  1. #1

    Dent Puller Advice

    Hello all,
    I’m restoring a 73S, the current focus are dents in the floorpan. Unfortunately several are under the sills and are inaccessible from the inside. These panels are joined by pinch welds. Here are a couple of shots of the worst damage:

    Name:  Left Rear Pinchweld Dent 1 - 8.30.2022.jpg
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    Name:  Left Rear Pinchweld Dent 2 - 8.30.2022.jpg
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    The lowest point needs to be pulled about 3/8” outward. A fixture could be used to pull up on the pinch weld but the outer sill is removed - there’s very little to push against. I’m considering either a Stud Gun or a Spot Puller in conjunction with a Slide Hammer. Here are shots of the units I have in mind:

    Name:  Vevor Stud Welder (Reduced).jpg
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    Name:  Vevor 110V G90e Spot Puller (Reduced).jpg
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    Studs may provide more pulling force where there are deep creases but a Spot Puller allows more finesse & there’s less clean-up. Lack of holding power is a common complaint for both. Are they designed more for modern cars with thinner metal? Does anyone have experience with these two types of dent pullers? Your recommendations are welcomed.
    Thanks in advance, Charles

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    NE Michigan
    Posts
    139
    That metal is probably stretched in the area of the dents so may need to be shrunk. I see some potential access holes. Talk to a paintless dent repair specialist.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    241
    stud gun will very likely work for this IMO. This is pretty minor TBH.
    - 1969 911T Ossi Blue #3981

  4. #4
    Thanks for your responses,
    I agree, there must be some streching involved. I'll contact my paintless dent guy but I don't think this work is in his wheelhouse.
    I'm leaning towards a stud gun. It should allow me to better pull on the dent centers while tapping down the high spots.

    The hoist deformation will be a harder fix. I'm considering pulling it out with a clamp or welded tab & a long bar.
    Do you have any tips for this type of procedure?

  5. #5
    Accessibility (or lack of) in this case forces one to think un-necessarily outside the box. Easiest way to create accessibility is to drill out 10 spot welds, cut out the damaged section, flatten it and weld it back in. Gives you access to both sides to shrink the floor back to original configuration. No new tools needed.
    registry# 1283

  6. #6
    Good point speedo,
    Unfortunately removing more material in this area may further weaken the body with additional bracing. Also I'd need to cut away some of the rear quarter for access for welding.
    Still, I'll take another look at that option, thanks.

  7. #7
    Arbezc, go to "you tube" and look up Tom at his "Ahh Garage Time" channel

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsJiGTA4yDY&t=13s

    at about 2:30 min. is an explanation of how his shop made puller pulls the edge seam straight, at 15:10 min in, you will find a example of his device to lower a dented and stretched portion of the floors.
    The before and after is a very good showing of a blade welded "pulling surface" that can be better than the stud puller for this type of dent. Be carefull with the stud pullers that can be over pulled and rip out a small section of metal...we have all done it.
    Bob
    Early S Reg #370

  8. #8
    Thanks the link Bobs,
    I've picked up a seam clamp & some welding tabs. The plan is to try both methods gefore going to a stud gun.

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