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Thread: Rear parcel shelf trim

  1. #11
    member #1515
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    Indeed, Bob is correct, I went back and looked at a picture of mine bare and the brackets are welded to the bulkhead. Sorry for the error, should have checked first.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  2. #12
    Senior Member Simonjjb's Avatar
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    If it gets really bad you can buy replacement brackets
    1968 911L Coupe - Golden Green
    1971 911S Coupe - Gemini Blue
    1973 911S Targa - Signal Yellow
    1974 914 2.3 - Sunflower Yellow

  3. #13
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    Well, the 90 degree screwdriver worked, halfway!
    One of the screws broke off, I guess over time rust from moisture weakened the metal. The other screw stripped. I tried to use a spin it out tool to remove it but that failed as well so I just broke the top off.
    Any smart ways to get to the 2 broken screws without removing the rear glass? Given the angle I can’t get the drill bit to screw in the screw extractor

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  4. #14
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    first mask/protect the glass
    with a Dremel or die grinder grind the screws down flat
    then with a 90 degree drill the screw
    then run a tap
    have a beer
    if you can't rig up a 90-degree drill.
    there are Dremel attachments and grinding bits that you can hog out the screw enough to get a tap in and rethread
    than have two beers...........

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob joyce View Post
    first mask/protect the glass
    with a Dremel or die grinder grind the screws down flat
    then with a 90 degree drill the screw
    then run a tap
    have a beer
    if you can't rig up a 90-degree drill.
    there are Dremel attachments and grinding bits that you can hog out the screw enough to get a tap in and rethread
    than have two beers...........
    Sounds lovely….
    Is it necessary to dremel the screw down before tapping? I don’t have the equipment to grind unfortunately…

  6. #16
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Are you going to use the brackets or are they for show. If the latter, glue them back in place and move on.

  7. #17
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    “For show” but as far as I could tell they also held the rear parcel shelf in place? The bottom screws weren’t really fastening it anymore.

  8. #18
    Senior Member mathieulecomte's Avatar
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    I would make a slot in your remaining screw with a dremel, loads of Kroil to penetrate and work the screw back in and out a few times to remove/get by the rust. You can retap easily, I did that to mine recently.

  9. #19
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    Well the good news is I got the passenger side screw out with a vise grip. The driver side unfortunately didn’t protrude far enough and I twisted the top off so I’ll have to see if I can drill it out.Name:  E393A780-4302-4378-892F-F1F9A1A93AF0.jpg
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  10. #20
    At that point the critical step is to carefully center punch the broken screw and you must be centered in the screw, then using a right angle drill motor start with small drill bits, the first small hole will show you if you are centered in the broken screw, assuming you are just keep stepping up your drill bit size until you get to the tap drill size, and if you were centered you can now tap out remaining screw bits with the correct size tap. ,,,,,Just a normal day at work.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

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