2.4 TV to 2.7 RS - "Leo Kinnunen tribute"

[Mikkoh]

Trailing arm reinforcements are another difference. Depends on how accurate of clone you want to make, and in what sequence of the ~1500 cars. The Konradsheim book is very helpful in detailing the differences and the cost a relatively small amount compared to the cost of your restoration. It is also a great book to read regardless.

The car you linked to is quite a special one-off RS, so even that would have substantial modifications relative to a "normal" lightweight, e.g. the S/T flares rather than RS and the 3.0 spoiler. Further compounding matters, that car has been restored, so you're copying something that is not exactly the same as original. Either way, I'd suggest contemplating whether you want a "tribute" or "clone" which in theory is the difference between something which reasonably approximates the experience of driving the car you are after and something which is an exact replica and indistinguishable in driving. There are some great threads on here which illustrate the rabbit hole of getting the minutia right, e.g. the quantity of undercarriage protection in the wheel wells. Looking at the photos, it looks like a larger '74-'75 flag mirror - was that original, a period improvement, or done by a subsequent owner? Interesting questions, or a waste of time? It is for certain a beautiful car and will be rewarding to emulate!

FWIW, the correct S TBs and stacks along with a 019 pump are for sale on one of the forums, I forget which. In the US, Eurometrix can convert your E stacks to RS specs. It isn't cheap!

I am well aware that this is not a standard resto etc. and this is exactly why I choose to do it. I have agreed already with Leos daughter that we will meet as collect all the original material she has about the car to confirm certain details. I have also connections to previous owners.

It is now bare shell being soon medium blasted for preparation to quite minor rust repairs and body modifications:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4x9WpsF2uUsuMNku5

Sourcing for ST fenders is done but selecting correct ones cannot be done until confirmed what was original to the factory delivery.

[Rick Cabell]

Richy is correct.

[Jay Laifman]

I note the front turn signals are chrome edged. That's not correct for a 1973 road car. Would it be correct for this car?

[fourteenten]

Cool project! As a second series RS it would have a 300km/hr speedo and a quartz clock. Steering wheel 38 cm, part number ending 806.10. Black edged turn signals. Looking at pictures from 2013 and 2018, 1177 had indeed a 250km/hr speedo, no clock (being M471 version) and probably standard 40 cm steering wheel. You might wonder how 1177 came out of the factory in 1973. Do you have any pictures from that time?

Regards,
Cees

[Mikkoh]

A lot of things seems to be not by the book but more comprehensive data will be collected. Body now blasted from the parts that need attention and the sound insulation will be removed as well to match the lightweight spec.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zr3zChQqECxMf3v8A

[Mikkoh]

Rear wing used in Leos car was according to stories a ´74 prototype part from the factory, here a photo from years back:


I happened to find one from behind my garage as I had bought a large set of parts from Jorma Vilander who was driving rally cross in the 80´s with 911:


Has still original Vin stamping: 302, I wonder is the car is still somewhere

[Mikkoh]

Interesting photo of the original car

[rostrenner]

Hi Mikkoh,

This is a fantastic restoration thread in the making, I really like your project!

Regarding satanic RS details, I can only second what RichWhite noted earlier: get yourself a copy of Georg Konradsheim's RS Book in its current edition. Not cheap but a long-lasting read.
I was surprised to see how many things changed over the production period. Depending on how close you want to be to original car (and budget, I feel), this could also be considered a degree of freedom.

My 1972 911 2.4TV just had a rod bearing failure and I discussed alot on 2.4 / 2.7L blocks with the engine builder. He advised what many noted on this forum in the past:
If you want to reliably run a 2.7L engine, best starting point is a 7R engine case (either in 2.4L or 2.7L spigot size). Opening up a 2.4 4/5R case is technically possible but not recommended. Oddly enough, my own 5R block sports the 7R webbing...

Regarding ST details, the is a ton of good information to find on this very forum.
On our side of the pond, I am eagerly following Matt's ongoing build of a 2.5ST GeLo Racing Replica. Check it out: https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=69465

Good luck and keep us posted,

Best regards
Jan

[Mikkoh]

The matching motor already has 7R block. 901.101.102.7R

Not sure about the spigot size yet but hoping for best...

[Mikkoh]

Since the original lightweight seats are quite difficult to find I purchased this Recaro 1328 for driver as an option to original recaro sport seats that belong to my car. Not yet correct fit to the Leos car but getting closer: