Looking for suggestions regarding the best method for re-finishing a SWB fuel tank

[mshaver51]

Seeking suggestions from the faithful regarding the best method for re-finishing a SWB fuel tank. I really want to get this right, so I'm consulting the people I trust most ... the Early S community.

EXTERIOR
The tank appears to be leak-free, but as one would expect the horizontal flange/seam has some pits. I am expecting to spend good time on the seam to remove/convert exterior rust, regardless.

I'd also like advice regarding cleaning and surface prep, prior to whatever paint is recommended (both type/brand of paint and color).

There are some areas around the tank with minor pitting, which I am tempted to address, but which would be entirely covered up by the body shutz finish, so I welcome suggestions on that.

Based on research so far, I'm tempted to lean toward POR-15 for the tank exterior, but I want to be sure that the paint finish is presentable, AND that the shutz will stick to the paint.

INTERIOR
I've performed pretty solid research about cleaning the inside of the tank, and am leaning toward Eastwood, but I'm interested in other thoughts.

Once the inside of the tank is cleaned, I'm also interested in your recommendations regarding the best internal sealer.

Along with the two separate stages of interior cleaning and sealing, I'm interested in hearing whether it is wise to use different products, or to stay with the same manufacturer to assure optimal compatibility.

Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom.

ms

[mshaver51]

Seriously, no guidance from those with direct fuel tank experience?

[TailHappyTorquelessWonder]

Seriously, no guidance from those with direct fuel tank experience?

Which model year? Different years different finishes (e.g. color, with/out sombrero).

[classic]

I can only tell you what I’ve done on a few tanks in the past. My current tank was treated +10 years ago.

1. I used paint stripper on the outside.
2. I had the tank “hot tanked” at a radiator shop.
3. Internals we’re done with a product call “Red Coat” https://www.ftrs.com.au/redkote/
4. Externally I 2 pac epoxy primed, and then worth SKS followed by a clear coat for chemical protection.

Of note as a caution, before doing any internal coating, ensure that you place a wire of appropriate diameter in the breather tube.

[mshaver51]

To answer the above question, it's a '68, serial number 0001, so it's a transition manufacture with some '67 carry-over.

I'm trying really hard to preserve as much originality as possible, but since the engine was separated, I simply seek to make a really nice driver, rather than a show car.

That's the reason for soliciting suggestions from the faithful.

Thank you, one and all.

[raspy2point2]

My tech said to just Hot tank the inside of the gas tank and do nothing else. Any residual rust will run through you fuel system and not harm anything. If you coat the inside, down the line pieces of coating will break off and clog up your fuel lines carbs and engine. So that is what I did and did not have a problem. Or you could buy a new tank. chris

[mshaver51]

hmmm ... i hadn't considered that 'clogging' angle, and no one around here has mentioned it.

thanks for that insight. very helpful.

[jim amato]

FWIW, My 912 tank has been coated internally, No problems in 15 years, I occasionally cut open the inline filter looking for this,so far,so good!

[raspy2point2]

there was a 67 911 in the shop trying to fix this very problem of pieces of coating that had broke off inside the tank. This kind of knowledge comes from experience that is up against people trying to sell you something that will "fix" your problem. Chris

[Flieger]

I'm having a tank likely replaced due to flaking coating. It seems the gasoline (or ethanol) vapors acted like paint stripper and now it scrapes off when I use the center fill (gas nozzle touches the side of the filler neck). Perhaps if it was not center fill I wouldn't have as much but I'm considering my options. Plastic tank to avoid rust?