Does anyone know what type of plastic the treaded end of the hazard switch on a 69 911? I broke the end of the shaft where the pull knob screws to and I want to try to bond the tip that broke and hopefully still see the light through the switch (the shaft is hollow). I tried cyanoacrylate and it lasted one drive without touching the switch. Seems like it's a one-year switch and prices are ridiculous.
Last edited by Fastissimo; 02-15-2023 at 12:42 PM.
Without seeing the break location it's a little difficult to say. Years ago when my '69 switch broke I used a two-part clear epoxy to make the repair. If your break is close to the knob such as mine was, be sure to pull the switch to the "on" position before applying the glue to increase the space between the knob and the switch so you don't glue the knob in the "off" position. Before applying the glue I prepared a cradle of masking tape to hold the knob in the correct orientation while the glue dried. I let it sit overnight, removed the tape and it's still working fine. Disconnect the battery to keep the lights from flashing while the glue dries.
There is an article in one of the Esses magazines in the last year or so (not home so not sure which season) about rebuilding that hazard switch. I think the Author uses a 3d printer to build a new shaft.
69 911S #1379
65 356 SC #130757
Above in off position with rosette
Above photo of the broken end of the plastic shaft
Above photo of switch in off position
Above photo of switch in on position
I think there is enough to fill the plastic shaft with clear epoxy, taking care that it doesn't glue the shaft to the switch.
Thanks, I'll try to find it!Originally Posted by Scott72
After taking the switch apart I realize that filling a portion of the shaft with clear epoxy is the easiest way that will provide a reliable repair and will allow the light to be seen through. Inside the shaft there is a clear rod between the light bulb and the knob. I can push that rod a bit more towards the light bulb and there will be enough space to fill the center of the shaft with epoxy. I think I'll secure temporarily the broken piece with super glue so that it stays in place while the epoxy cures.
I have that exact issue with an NOS hazard switch still in the original.
Watching this with great interest, can't bear to toss out a new part.
You might want to look into this product, SCIGRIP Weld-On 16 Cement.
A clear and thick cement for industrial-grade acrylic. Heavy-bodied solvent for a quick bond. This Weld-On cements styrene, butyrate, and other plastics. Use on irregular edges, especially when high-strength (not bubble-free) joints are required—good outdoor weatherability.
https://www.scigripadhesives.com/sci...lastic-cement/
Harry
Member #789
1970 VW Sunroof Kombi Bus - "The Magic Bus"
1973.5 911T Targa for fun - "Smokey"
2009 MB C300
This thread makes me approach the hazard switch in my ‘69T with trepidation! I had no idea this part was so fragile and such a PIA.
Rich Spritz
1959 BMC Huffaker Mk1 Formula Junior racecar
1967 Porsche 911 racecar
1969 Porsche 911T
1970 Winkelmann WDF2 Formula Ford racecar
1973 Merlyn Mk24 Formula Ford racecar
2007 Porsche 997C4 cab (totaled by an idiot running a stop sign)
2014 Porsche 991 TurboS cab
2019 Cayman GTS (wife's)
I'm lucky my 69 has a good one but I don't touch it as too scared to break it. Put new rubber on the knob a while back and was on pins and needles taking it apart.
69 911S #1379
65 356 SC #130757
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