Porsche 73 RS

[Joshua3m]

Hi all ,

I can imagine that we have dozen if not even more people who build replica, tribute car matching 73 RS.

How accurate your build was ?
Was anybody who actually match 1:1 rear flare (fender) lip that it's exact like in RS instead putting Carrera flare.

Im in process of getting all information before starting build and it's reason why I'm asking.

Thru searches I know that difference is actually really big comparing to Carrera and:
1. I did found rare quarter panel original for RS brand new but seller asking silly money for it 10,000 euro for one side.
2. I could see that there are some companies who are selling only flare but I don't know how accurate it is to original and the price point it's again questionable.

Hence do anyone have maybe 3d scan of flare and fender that can share from the original RS ?

[RickWhite]

Porsche is selling new flares...same as the old flares. See page 86 of Originale no. 8.

No reason to buy NOS unless you have a real one. Also, if you are going to build a lightweight, use the Porsche fiberglass bumpers. They are much better than the aftermarket and whatever you save in price will be paid back in labor costs if the fit is going to be adequate.

Accuracy in an RS clone is a rabbit hole and just depends on how far you are willing to go, see my build thread for just a few details that have needed attention. It will help tremendously if you have a shop that regularly sees RS's and better yet, if they are doing a restoration coincident to your work.

My best advice would be to start with a '73 T from California that is rust-free and straight. Actually best would be a ROW '73 T that was imported to California years ago...

Good luck.

[Joshua3m]

I'm aware that Porsche are selling them but for sure this is over my budget at 7-8k for one side - yeah they would be amazing fit and like orginal.

Hence my only option is have maybe SC rare quarter panel and change the flare / lip to make it look like RS one.

I did actually already picked up car for project and as i want really take all to shell and build up everything back I did choose early G model.

I don't know why but i would never cut or retrofit F specially S or T as there are no so many left in good shape not rotten down plus for this project there is actually limited budet which are not allowing to get F model.

[mepstein]

Are you doing the work yourself or sending to a shop. If you are paying a shop to transform the car to an RS, any savings you get buying a G model will get eaten up in parts and labor compared to buying an F model. Doesn’t mean the G model can’t be made to look nice but it’s not the right base if you want a clone type car.

[edmayo]

G model fuse box is always the instant give-away.

[frederik]

I don't know why but i would never cut or retrofit F specially S or T as there are no so many left in good shape not rotten down plus for this project there is actually limited budet which are not allowing to get F model.

Plenty of Ts (actually the E is the rarest) and if you're making a high-quality RS clone it's not a waste of a T in my opinion. That said, "high-quality RS clone" and "limited budget" do not go well together. For the 2.7 RS experience you need the RS motor with MFI, so a 2.4 T with MFI would be the ideal base.

[RickWhite]

Sorry, that was the full rear quarter. They sell the flares too:

911-503-607-03
911-503-608-03

[Joshua3m]

Plenty of Ts (actually the E is the rarest) and if you're making a high-quality RS clone it's not a waste of a T in my opinion. That said, "high-quality RS clone" and "limited budget" do not go well together. For the 2.7 RS experience you need the RS motor with MFI, so a 2.4 T with MFI would be the ideal base.

Indeed T would be best option however in the wrong run it will cost more actually then i have in plans and for sure i will be not 100% sure about rust issues.
I did actually get G really cheap and anyway quarter panels will be cut off and new one installed plus part of car will be in gfk to get some weight out ( yes i know not this same as orginal)

For engine it will be all as RS spec with only part not matching (velocitty stacks) which i can't found at resonable price hence one from E model will be drilled to match the RS spec.
However here I'm still not sure if i should go with G 2.7 magnesium or get one from older version when they change to alloy ( after 76 )

Limited budget = do what i can myself and go with good quality parts where it make sense orginal ( like pair of recaro rand seats or speedo , mirrors etc ) or close to orginal ones. ( i just dont see point spending 8k euro on body panels from RS ( https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzei...nt=app_android)

and plan is to rebuild the harness that it's actually placed not in the middle section but lower section where in G model you have normally battery located

[Joshua3m]

Sorry, that was the full rear quarter. They sell the flares too:

911-503-607-03
911-503-608-03

thanks for sending this but price for flares only is a joke but I already learned everything what is RS or RSR is like double in price.

[mepstein]

thanks for sending this but price for flares only is a joke but I already learned everything what is RS or RSR is like double in price.

$800 for a real Porsche flare doesn’t sound bad to me.