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Thread: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

  1. #11
    Thanks all. So I was able to get the bottom ones removed. The engine building used gaskets. I believe they had the silicone bead trace as cbpii mentioned above. He did use some sealant but that wasn't the reason they where so hard to get off. What I found was that on the bottom studs, he had placed a rubber O-ring around the stud and got compressed around the stud when the nuts where tightened. They had become hard, almost plastic like. Until I was able to remove all the pieces with a pick, the cover would not budge. Has anyone seen this before? I read somewhere that most leaks happen around the stud so I understand the logic. But it does make the cover very hard to remove.

    Chris

  2. #12
    Okay....so I've now made the leak even worse. I came out this morning and probably have 1/2 quart of oil ground. I can visually see oil leaking from the bottom valve covers. I used the green gaskets (not with the silicone bead) and new hardware. I don't have a torque wrench that can measure 6 ft lbs so, taking a 1/4 drive socket, I tightened the nut about 1/8 of a turn once I felt the nut was snug. Could I have over torqued the nuts? I had a complete rebuild about 10 years ago and don't have a lot of miles on the car. I recall checking the tops for flatness but I can't recall checking the bottom. The tops weren't completely flat but they could have been within tolerance. Not sure I know how flat they should be.

    So, I guess I need to start over. Are these gaskets toast? Should I try the silicone gaskets? The previous gaskets had the silicon bead and some type of white sealant on them. Not a lot, but definitely had sealant. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Chris

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Are you certain the leaks are from the lower valve covers, and are both leaking?

    After a rebuild, I think I remember that the shafts that hold the rocker arms need to be retorqued after 1000 miles. A leak at the shafts could look like a valve cover leak.

    I did not retorque mine and after about 2000 miles, a shaft fell out. I was about 100 miles from home, but did make it on 5 cylinders with about three or four quarts of oil sprinkled on the road.
    Steve

  4. #14
    I use a long piece of glass, a piece of belt sander laid on the glass and then sand the valve cover until you see shiny across the surface, meaning its flat. now install and I tighten from center out, twice. No torque just 1/4" drive like you used. I'm assuming you saw oil residue at the gasket seam to the cover?
    Early S Registry member #90
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  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by 1969911T View Post
    Are you certain the leaks are from the lower valve covers, and are both leaking?

    After a rebuild, I think I remember that the shafts that hold the rocker arms need to be retorqued after 1000 miles. A leak at the shafts could look like a valve cover leak.

    I did not retorque mine and after about 2000 miles, a shaft fell out. I was about 100 miles from home, but did make it on 5 cylinders with about three or four quarts of oil sprinkled on the road.
    Steve
    Steve,
    Both lowers were leaking toward the front. The right one was the worse. But I want to know more about the shafts that hold the rocker arms. Forgive my ignorance but were are these? I know they haven't been re-torqued so I should check them anyway.

    Chris

  6. #16
    I pulled the right cover off this morning and they covers are a bit warped. They are highest in the middle and if I try to hold a straight edge tight and level with the middle, have about .22 inch gap on the front and a .2 inch on the rear. I'll see if I can sand it down as Ed Mayo suggested. But question, would the silicone gasket work best in my case?

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    Chris

  7. #17
    Senior Member rgupta250's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris belyea View Post
    I pulled the right cover off this morning and they covers are a bit warped. They are highest in the middle and if I try to hold a straight edge tight and level with the middle, have about .22 inch gap on the front and a .2 inch on the rear. I'll see if I can sand it down as Ed Mayo suggested. But question, would the silicone gasket work best in my case?

    Chris
    Yes, the silicone gaskets are slightly more accommodating to ‘non-flat’ valve covers.

    They can be found here:
    https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4235
    ------------------------------------------------
    1971 911T/ restoring to S-spec Coupe / Gold Metallic on Black
    1995 911 C2 / Guards Red on Cashmere Beige (Sold)

  8. #18
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    With the valve covers off, there is a shaft holding each rocker(where the valve adjustment is). An allen bolt on each end of each rocker arm shaft needs to be tightened. The aluminum lower turbo valve cover(930-115-116-05) with ribs solved my problem.
    Last edited by 1969911T; 08-05-2024 at 01:46 PM. Reason: add part number

  9. #19
    Quick question on torquing the nuts on the valve cover. If using paper gaskets, I've see post where they say 6 ft/lbs and others say a max of 18 ft/lbs. What is correct?

    Chris

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