Early Glasurit

[mrimorton]

Dr Schimdt,
That was an incredible info.

Bonnet and front bumper of my Sepia car has some stone chips on it, so I will have that re-painted from bare metal using, as you suggested, 22 Line. I will let you know how I get on, and will post some pictures in due course.

Thanks again and best regards,
Ian

[schmidt]

Unless your car has an excessive amount of material, going down to bare metal my be more work than it is worth. Sounds to me like you are just doing some touching up and if the old paint is good, and not to thick I would recommend blocking down the hood and shooting it. Painting straight onto well cured enamal is fine and is actually a good substrate, but if the car has been painted with a unknown product many problem can and will occur especially with any laquer based products. These products are very sensitive to solvents and will blister and swell in the presents of new sovents in new paint. You may want to try a Glasurit 521 elastifier additive as well on the front bumper, it seems to help with the chipping, it is mixed 25% with the top coat. Once again the colors may vary with the new paint versus 30 year old paint that is on the car, and will so even more if the paint is not the original glasurit. The hood and front bumper are not critical areas to tint, so a slight variation will not be noticed. Good luck.

Schmidt

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Well Mr. Schmidt said it all but there are still reasons to use the old paints to repair untouched old cars ( like pwd´s ).

The problem with mixing the correct paint with modern based materials needs some research and is doable.
( it is done for most Porsche paints and aviable from the Factory, Sikkens, Glasurit, Herberts ). Normaly you just order the color# and they call you if things are unclear.

So you can mix new material to perfect blend into the old color.

The major problem is aging.

The old colors are faded over the years so if you mix them to the databook they don´t match.

Then the painter usually blend in the tone for a perfect match. ( Thats only done by a small group expirienced enough )
You also can ask there service to blend the color based on a send in probe or they come along with a color analyzer.

The next problem is after several years the different based colors fade in different shades.

You can help a bit by using a UV protective clear coat on the complete car and some colors ( mostly uni colors ) are fading very similar ( especially on collector cars not seeing to much sun ).

If you have a metallic color things are more difficult in square as mixing the color is only one problem but applying that needs a absolute expert.

Also the most US painters work mostly with different products in different routines.

Now today we have a new problem arising with the "waterbased" material becoming standard in automotive industrie.

Grüsse

[schmidt]

Yes that is true, that new paints will fade at a different rate than old paints. Nothing is perfect therefore several things must be assumed. Thirty year old paint on a car will have faded about the most it will, and if well taken care of it will hold its color. Newer topcoats have less fading properties and will keep the original shade. Perfect color matching with new paints to old paints is critical, and because of the age and stability of a thirty year old paint, the result will have little fading by in large. Doing panel repair with ten twenty or even thiry year old paint doesnt make it any better. The paint will still have to be tinted to match and if you get a match at the time of painting, you have just completed a job with paint that is far more sensitive to fade and the perfect color match may not last. Doing panel spot repair and clearing a panel on a solid color single stage color is a quick and dirty fix that may have better matching properties but then you are compairing a cleared panel that has much better gloss hold out properties to a solid color next to it, it never looks good for long.

Having said all of that, nothing is perfect when it comes to repairs. Order paint via color code is never perfect, it isnt perfect on a one year old car and it certainly isnt perfect on a 30 year old car. Paints that are mixed via color code are mearly a baseline, and MUST be tinted or toned for a perfect match. Using new paint to repair old paint gives me far more confidence, it is two knows, I know that the old paint will not fade futher, and I know that the new paint will have little fade, therefore the longterm quality will last. Using old paints to repair old paint jobs leaves you with a large unknown, we all know that old paint a suspect to fading, but how much and how fast. This will cause problems long term that would me feel uncomfortable, and I personally would not use this approach. Many things have been done chemically on newer paints to prevent fading, and this is the main reason why. I do agree it takes someone who cares who has a lot of experience to get things right and those individuals are few and far between.

Schmidt

[mrimorton]

Schmidt,
Would a top concours judge be able to tell the difference between 21 Line and 22 Line?

[glaverbel911]

Most concours Judges these days don't even know what tool-kit is correct for which-year car..... Let alone paint matlerial, panel fitment or finish's. The whole sad truth is that concours judging no-longer is AS focused on what is correct and original...Detail expert's with years of knoledge and experience are few and far between.
I'm sure there's a few people that have come across similar judging issue's.

Rob.......

[pwd72s]

Most concours entrants are PRAYING that PCA doesn't ask Jeff to be a judge. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT="">

[wgwollet]

I have a 1973 Porsche 911T Targa with light Ivory (code131).

It is original paint, my uncle bought car new, the paint job is OK at 10 feet and really he took good care of the car. But it does have some paint chips and bubbles.

Would you guys just leave it alone? Or touch up, some Porsche nuts say do not mess with a original paint patina.

Thx

[merbesfield]

Don't repaint it unless it is really bad. A good detailer or body shop can touch up with small brushes or maybe even an air brush and buff the paint out. There is definitely something to be said about patina. Of course, expect the body shop to try and talk you into a complete or partial repaint.