New owner questions

[Wolf Knierim]

I was only looking for an affordable 911 to drive a couple times a week. Found a decent 67 S in the local paper for 10 G, guess I got lucky. I came over from the early mustang world and there is no comparison between the two makes. Actually this 67 rides, handles, and moves as well as any 2003 2 liter rice machine. I am stunned. Since I am new to Porsche world, please help me with following questions; Who do you like for parts suppliers? I am aware of Performance Products and Tweeks. Where do I get a Kardex? Is slight bucking during coasting and low throttle normal with this 2 liter engine? Many more questions to come I am sure. Thanks

[RandyWebb]

get Kardex direct from PAG.

Perf. has a nice catalog, but are way overpriced. Always check out the dealer for parts (or a mail order dealer if the local one is too spendy). Beware non-factory parts -- unlike US iron, the Prosche parts are hard to improve on. You can update some parts with better and lighter wt. parts from later years.

Some wrecking yards have tons of Porsche parts also.

3dr party parts suppliers can be found advertising on Rennlist.com and one, Pelican runs its own BBS.

Have fun.

[pwd72s]

EXCELLENCE magazine will also contain ads from many parts suppliers...once you buy a copy, you'll probably send in a subscription card...

[ttweed]

Originally posted by Wolf Knierim
Found a decent 67 S in the local paper for 10 G, guess I got lucky.

If it has no rust and has all the original equipment, you did indeed get lucky.

Originally posted by Wolf Knierim
Actually this 67 rides, handles, and moves as well as any 2003 2 liter rice machine. I am stunned.

You're quite right. That model was very advanced for its time, and still compares favorably to today's road cars in many aspects.

Originally posted by Wolf Knierim
I am aware of Performance Products and Tweeks.

Try your local dealer for many parts, you may be surprised at the cost (sometimes pleasantly, sometimes not). I have used GPR with great success, as well as Pelican Parts and Sunset Imports.

As far as bucking at low RPMs goes, that is not normal and indicates that your engine is not in perfect tune. The '67S is notorious for a weak spark and benefits greatly from the addition of an aftermarket CD ignition, such as the MSD. The factory went to a CD ignition themselves in '69 or so, due to the problem of plugs fouling on the early 2-liter engines. Also, get your carbs dialed in and synched properly, and you will be amazed at the smoothness and driveability of your car. Today's gasoline is not what it used to be, it is much more volatile and lower octane, and this must be taken into account when setting up the carbs.

Good luck and enjoy driving it, but remember it is heavily biased to the rear in it's weight distribution. DON"T LIFT in a fast corner. Join the PCA and go to some driver's ed events to get a feel for the handling at the limit. These cars can bite you if you drive them wrong.
TT

[roblav]

My early 901/05 cars always bucked below 2000RPM or so, even after spending a lot of time ensuring that all the orifices in the carbs were clean, that they were dialed in correctly, and the ignition was working correctly. The cams are fairly wild for a street car... I also recommend getting a decent ignition system for your car.

[Wolf Knierim]

Thanks fellas for the info. I found the following for aquiring a cardex, can anyone confirm or deny?
Send 30 bucks to
PCNA
980 Hammond Dr
Suite 1000
Atlanta, Ga. 30328
About the bucking at low throttle, the car does have a CD ignition system already. It is an older unit but it does whine when turned on. I have also overhauled the original S stamped IDA 3C's. I am fairly sure I did a decent job. I used the original jet sizing as the 1967 manual stated. ttweed mentioned todays gas requires different carb settings, Do you mean jet sizing?, if so, what direction?

[ttweed]

Originally posted by Wolf Knierim
Thanks fellas for the info. I found the following for aquiring a cardex, can anyone confirm or deny?

Wolf-
That's the old info. The program recently changed and it is a LOT more expensive now. $70 plus S&H for the early cars! Go to your local dealer and they will have the form with the new address and rates. If you're too far from a dealer, go to this site and download the form in PDF format (you will need the Acrobat reader installed).

As far as the gas situation and carbs, the main problem is how volatile the new fuel is (RVP of 11.5 vs. 9 for the older fuel). The percolation problem with Webers is amplified, and when the carbs get hot, the fuel can vaporize more easily. You might want to use the PMO insulation blocks under the manifolds and do their venting trick (see p. 150 of BA's book, 2nd ed.).

I went to a large plug gap with the MSD 6AL and larger idle jets to cure the low-speed roughness. Also make sure your distributor advance mechanism is working properly, as they tend to get gummed up over the years. While it's true that the S cams are pretty wild and only start wailing at about 5500-7300 RPM, my '67S runs smooth coming off the line and at low RPM, there just isn't much power there. Due to throttle shaft wear, I have had to set the idle at 1000-1200 to make up for the false air getting in, but that's cheaper than rebushing the shafts!

Good luck,
TT