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Thread: Early 911 Colors

  1. #21
    Senior Member CurtEgerer's Avatar
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    Here's a 1971 color chart, including interior options:
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  2. #22

    Ebay Item # for the 67S heads

    Shawn,
    Below is the link to the auction. It ends today.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2417781523

  3. #23
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Originally posted by garth wagner
    All that would be left would be the S pistons.
    Actually, the rods were different in the "S" motor too, I believe. They were nitrated, while the "Normal" engine rods were not, and titanium rods from the 906 could be ordered as an option. Not a big difference, I suppose, and if rebuilding one today I would use Pauter rods anyway...

    TT
    Tom Tweed
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  4. #24

    Nitrided Rods

    TT,
    I believe you are right. Was there any significant advantage to the nitrided rods that would make it critically important when rebuilding a normal 67 to S spec?
    Also, what would a set of Pauter rods cost?

  5. #25
    Originally posted by ttweed
    titanium rods from the 906 could be ordered
    From where?

    Does 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 share the same rod length?

  6. #26
    The 2.0 and 2.2 share the same rod length since they have the same stroke. The 2.4 however has shorter rods due to the increased stroke of the crank.
    Bobby
    71' Olive 2.2E Targa / Early S #491

    I've always considered the glass to be half full...that is until I reached middle age and realized that it is actually half empty.

  7. #27
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Re: Nitrided Rods

    Originally posted by garth wagner
    TT,
    I believe you are right. Was there any significant advantage to the nitrided rods that would make it critically important when rebuilding a normal 67 to S spec?
    I would not say "critically" important. Nitrating is a surface treatment to increase fatigue strength and wear resistence and reduce the possibility of cracks propagating. Shot-peening the rods and cryo-treating them when they are reconditioned may have about the same effect.

    Also, what would a set of Pauter rods cost?
    Haven't bought any lately, but I would guess around $1200/set, similar to Carrillo, possibly a little cheaper, since they are their main competitors.

    TT
    Tom Tweed
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  8. #28
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Originally posted by beginner
    From where?
    From the factory. Titanium connecting rods were a listed option for the '67S at the dealer, if you were willing to wait for a special order car. Incredibly cheap, too, compared to what you would have to give for a set today, if you could find them.

    TT
    Tom Tweed
    Early S Registry #257
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  9. #29

    Nitided Con Rods

    ttweed,
    I found someone who has a good used set of early S nitrided connecting rods from a 2.0S that is asking $500. Is that a fair price? Also, what is the lifespan of a notrided connecting rod? Do they tend to break down after a certain mileage?
    Thanks

  10. #30
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Re: Nitided Con Rods

    Originally posted by garth wagner
    I found someone who has a good used set of early S nitrided connecting rods from a 2.0S that is asking $500. Is that a fair price? Also, what is the lifespan of a notrided connecting rod? Do they tend to break down after a certain mileage?
    garth-
    I would have to defer to someone who has more immediate knowledge of the used parts market to say if $500 is a fair price. However, if I was considering using them in a rebuild, I would want to know whether they have been tested for structural integrity and reconditioned or not. Fatigue and wear are the enemies of metal parts, and any used part is susceptible. If they have not been crack-tested, checked and measured for spec by a competent machine shop, then reconditioned, rebushed and balanced, you will have to add the cost of that operation to the bare cost of the parts in considering their value compared to a new set of forged rods.

    That said, the stock rods are excellent pieces and can go many hundreds of thousands of miles in a stock motor without any problems. For racing purposes, in a high compression engine revving over 7800 RPM routinely, I would want the Carrillo or Pauter rods and bolts.

    TT
    Tom Tweed
    Early S Registry #257
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