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Thread: The age-old Q: 2.7L or 3.2L?

  1. #21
    Originally posted by ckissick
    Chuck,

    I printed 22 pages of the documentation on your conversion. I'll be studying that when the time comes, but as I have a '70 with a 2.7L carb'd engine, my conversion will be simpler than yours. I'll also use a conventional ignition system, and I'll keep the original 901 tranny. Any specific tips on my particular project, based on all the knowledge you recently gained? Thanks.
    So you've decided to go with a 2.7 rather than a 3.0 or 3.2? Is the 2.7 in good condition...?

    I think installing a 2.7 into a 70 will be easier. The 2.7 will bolt right up to the 70 transmission (I had to swap transmissions). The 2.7 engine wiring harness will plug into the 70 14 pin connect, though you'll need to check to make sure the pins are in the right spot. Regarding your ignition system, you may have to get a 6 pin CD box to match the 2.7 motor. Also check to see that the 70 voltage regulator works with the 2.7's alternator.
    95 968 cabriolet
    69 911e 3.0 transplant (sold)

  2. #22
    Chuck: Oops, I guess I wasn't clear.

    I now have a 2.7L, and am going to convert to a stock 3.0L. I'll put my SSI's and the Webers on the 3.0, and use a CD box. I know my '70 is easier than a '69, especially for electrical reasons. So, whadya think?
    Charlie
    '66 912
    '50 VW Bug
    '89 VW syncro Tristar Doka
    '83 VW Westfalia

  3. #23
    Originally posted by ckissick
    Chuck: Oops, I guess I wasn't clear.

    I now have a 2.7L, and am going to convert to a stock 3.0L. I'll put my SSI's and the Webers on the 3.0, and use a CD box. I know my '70 is easier than a '69, especially for electrical reasons. So, whadya think?
    Initially I planned to run the CIS system but that got complicated quick. Decided go with carbs and electromotive. At which point I completely removed the 3.0 engine wire harness and start from scratch. If you are going to run carbs on the 3.0 it seems like the only difference would be the ignition...as the sensors for the instruments should all be the same, right? Seems like the conversion would be straightforward.

    Now the other quesition is how much will be gained by going to a 3.0 stock motor. Worth the time money and effort? Good 3.0 motors are expensive these days. An alerternative would be to modify the 2.7 motor...I think one can buy bigger P&Cs to get 2.9L or so.

    Guess I need to re-read the posts...what are you trying to do...what is your budget...how much work will you do yourself...do you already have the 3.0 motor...?
    95 968 cabriolet
    69 911e 3.0 transplant (sold)

  4. #24
    Ooops. Sorry just went back and re-read dialogue. If you can get a 3.0 freshly rebuilt then by all means get that motor. Though I would want to know what is meant by "rebuilt." A "full" rebuild would cost more than $4K from what I've read. A rebuild on your worn 2.7 could easily cost that much....and I think that many find the 3.0 a more desireable engine should you decide to sell down the road. I don't have anything against the 2.7 motors...from what I have read they are good motors once the typical issues are repaired....I just think there is a belief out there that the 2.7 CIS motors are "grenades" and the 3.0 motors are "bulletproof."

    So I guess I'd go for the 3.0 motor assuming that it's in good shape. I traded my 2.0 E motor for a 3.0 82 SC motor. The motor I bought needed headstuds, P&Cs, valve guides, a couple valves and a reseal. But I knew going in that the motor needed attention...Link to rebuild thread
    95 968 cabriolet
    69 911e 3.0 transplant (sold)

  5. #25
    I was just about to buy some RS P&C's for the 2.7, then found the 3.0. It's better this way, as I have little free time what with 2 small kids and a wife who works evenings. The 3.0 was underpriced to sell fast, but it wasn't the deal of the century. It was rebuilt by a reliable mechanic, but with no upgrades. The heads were totally re-built, and it has new bearings. I think that besides the desire for a quick sale, the reason for the low price was that there were no major parts needed.

    The 3.0 has the original chain tensioners, so I'll have to spend more to install the oil-fed ones. I think I'm getting a good engine for a good price, not a great engine for a great price. But it'll result in a great car, for less money than it would have cost me in parts and machine work to rebuild the 2.7 myself. And way less time. And no oil leaks! (I hope)
    Charlie
    '66 912
    '50 VW Bug
    '89 VW syncro Tristar Doka
    '83 VW Westfalia

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