$122,000 hk
DIVIDE BY 8 roughly is $15,000 us. the guy was in hong kong
$122,000 hk
DIVIDE BY 8 roughly is $15,000 us. the guy was in hong kong
Watt
---------
RS clone
2004 Challenge Stradale
2004 GT3
Watt....Originally posted by watt
$122,000 hk
DIVIDE BY 8 roughly is $15,000 us. the guy was in hong kong
That's gotta be it. The $$$ to convert it to RH drive just doesn't make sense if we are to believe the selling price was only $48k
Thx.
Johnny Riz
73E euro 3.2 w. a few goodies
Rgrp 152
S Reg 335
WOW! A Hong Kong conversion. That can't be good for resale.
Best,
Don
Don, it wasn't Thanks for the currency info Watt. Makes more sense now.
Brian
'71T
R Gruppe #299
1/I don't know if it really matters anymore but you may wish to know the following details concerning 911 360 1036:
1036 was the very last Carrera RS built using lightweight panels.
Back in the day, UK and European ethusiasts [and publications]used to refer to a total of 1036 1973 Carrera RSs. This was based on the cars being constructed using all lightweight [as applicable] panels. The Factory recorded it as 1000 cars to meet homoligation and an additional 36 cars which happed to be the amount that used up the lightweight panels.
I believe that 1036 is particularly significant as it was the FINAL "LIGHTWEIGHT" Carrera RS built. Many built after had a variety of lightweight parts but I suspect that none had all of the lightweight bits and I believe that any of the early lightweight chassis cars are neater than the later cars built on 911S [heavy] chassis but trimmed as M471 and called "lightweights" but the general community.
John Rice
2/Only after the cars shot up in value in the late 80s did you see references to the entire production run as genuine RSs. I realize that the RS Book refers to a total of 1590. In the day I seem to recall that they referred to the cars beyond 1036 as slightly different. An irony is that in the day everyone seemed to refer to the cars as "RS/RSL/RST" for "base RS/RS to lightweight specs/rs Touring w/911S street equipment". Of couse, this is all wrong and the base stripper [no one would want to ever drive] was actually the RSH [holomigation], RS [or M471 or Sports as they were variously referred to], and RSL [M472 or Touring and I suspect the Factory meant Luxury].
To appreciate my comments, you may wish to consider that I own #1122 [some,but not all, lightweight panels]. I still believe that all the RS cars are great as long as they are DRIVEN and USED HARD, just like the Factory intented. Perfect collector cars belong in museums, not garages!
GodSPEED all!
John Rice
Greetings,
While I have never measured an RS personally. I did recommend to someone they measure the metal on a questionable car that was thought to be retubbed. It turned out the car had been clipped and they were able to tell what was thin and not thin.
I also think my first series cars are thinner by how easily the panels move/bend. When I bought #93 I had a ding specialist go over the car bumper to bumper getting out not just dings but waves in the metal as well. It seemed thin.
I think a first series car will always be a little more special because of the unique feature of thin sheetmetal.
Best,
Don
On my series 1 and series 2 cars the thinner steel is easily detectable. For example, light pressure from the palm of my hand deflects the steel on the roof of those cars. By contrast, the roof on my '73 T doesn't budge when I try the same thing.
Dick Moran
Greetings,
The difference between the LW thinner sheet metal and normal is only 0.08 mm. 0.80 +/- 0.02 mm to be more specific and 0.88 +/- 0.02 mm for the sheet metal used in S-ess and the later Touring versions. If you want to measure it correctly, remove the two M5 bolts from under the dash above your knee, remove from both sides with fine sand paper a little circle of paint of the sheet metal, use a small mirror and measure the thickness of it the metal. I think all the RS's had still the thinner metal there. This could be an point to look at, and check if the later RS is a fake one (please don't quote me on this).
In order to recognize a later RS, check if there are any race seat belt points under the parcel shelf. They were unique in the RS.
Cees
Cees,
Never thought about measuring the metal there. Good thought. That would only apply, of course, to the first 2 series of cars though. Are the race seat belt attachments in the last series of cars also?
The best way I know for sure if a fake is suspected is to check the production # with the serial # of the car. Not exactly simple, but the best proof there is.
Brian
'71T
R Gruppe #299