Need to reset torsions i the rear -5/8"

[SprintStar]

Originally posted by admin
"...to mark the torsion bar ends with white correction fluid."

This only works if you can see the ends of the bar. Once inserted into the chassis and with the spring plate splined, the TB ends are not visible.

Sherwood

Opps! My bad! I was thinking of my old VWs when I mentioned it.... Once you pop off the cover, viola!

Sprint.

[NeunElf]

The angle of the spring plate relative to the door sill is a variable, dependent on the angle of the car on jack stands.

I really am pretty sure the angle of the spring plate with respect to the door sills does not depend on how the car sits on the jack stands.

The angle of the spring plate with respect to vertical certainly does vary with the car's angle. That's why you correct for the door sill angle.

[admin_old]

Oops. I worded it incorrectly. The angle of the door sill is a variable depending on the height of the jack stands. Thus the angle of the free-hanging spring plate is also a variable. The relationship between the two, however, doesn't change when the car is on stands.

thanks for correcting the mis-speak.

Sherwood

[Neunelfer]

I posted this picture in a previous thread regarding my control arms. Seems like it might be useful here... Harbor Freight. $5 bucks.

Invaluable.

I used the factory manual suggestions for setting the rake on the car at the door sill. Subtracted the current angle (on jack stands) and measured "before" and "after" the installation of new bars (I went up to 26mm). I also used Tom Fitzpatricks calculator to guestimate the new angle. You won't need to do this with the same bars, only if you increase size.

Here's the link: http://www.vintagebus.com/cgi-bin/spring.cgi

I second the notion of getting adjustable plates.

[Spud]

This is some really good info on indexing, and the suggestions on upgrading to adjustable spring plates is right on.

The only thing I would add is that you should go with the factory adjustable spring plates, not the sway-aways. Why? Well just last week my mechanic and I were preparing to replace the worn bushings on my sway-aways, and NOBODY (pelican, performance, tweeks, parts heaven, strasse... etc...) has the bushings in stock (or any idea when they would be available) for the sway-aways.

You see the sway-away spring plates inside bushing mount is a different OD (2") than the factory plates, so the bushings available (Neatrix, Weltmeister etc.) do not fit (1 15/16 ID I think) without modification. The solution was a drill press and a 2" forstner bit, worked great but not ideal.

So due to the fact that the bushings for the sway-aways are MIA/NLA I say go with factory. Lots more choices and no modification needed.

whew... glad I got that off my chest