More Progress on the 73 VGE

[larry47us]

Rick:

I appreciate your description of the process. I expect that Mike will be removing all of the paint. He did tell me that the next time he sent pictures, it would look like a DeLorean.

We have talked about primer, body fill, block sanding, painting and color sanding. I don't remember if he said 4 or 5 coats of paint. Does that sound right? He said that more coats than that don't make sense, since you end up sanding it back down when you color sand. This is something that I have no knowledge of, so I need to trust my mechanic (like everything else on this car!!)

We had discussions about single stage versus a two stage paint process months ago. He is going to do a single stage paint, because it is more original. I don't think that the "plastic" look of a 2 stage paint would look appropriate on an early car. He is using DuPont paint, which is his preference. Early on we discussed Glasurit, but he has never used it, and it is not cool to have him experiment on my car with it.

The guy doing my PPI has seen cars Mike has done, and says that Mike does an amazing paint job. Here's a picture of a Cab conversion that he did last year.

larry

[70SATMan]

Rick,

How many paint jobs is your limit before deciding to go back down to bare metal. My new 70 has had one repaint in black over the original silver. It was a great job (needs to be buffed out) in 75 but seems a little thick to me in the jambs.

When I decide to go back to the original silver should I take it back down?

Also what's your favorite method of removal? Chemical or media blast?

Cheers,

[pwd72s]

That cab conversion sure looks interesting...Larry, do you know if any body stiffening braces were added?

[rvdv]

It looks like that cab conversion was done on a Targa chassis, were the Targa chassis reinforced at the factory?

[larry47us]

Originally posted by Rick Cabell
1) bare metal
2) etch primer
3) body work and minor filler as needed
4)block sand suface to the level of prefection you are looking for.
5) high build primer, and block sand untill you hands go numb.
6)base coat of paint, and then needed additional coats.
7) clear coat.
8) wet sand and buff as needed.

Rick,

Just confirmed with Mike. He said that he follows this process exactly, except that he doesn't use a clear coat. As I indicated, he is using a single stage paint. But it is the polish and wax that keeps guys like Meguiars in business. (and yes I know that clear coats oxidize too.)

Regarding the cab conversion. Yes, it is based on a Targa chassis. I don't know whether there were any changes made to the chassis to add strength or stiffening. I do know that he didn't send it back to Porsche for any of the work.

larry

[sundaypunch]

Originally posted by 70SATMan
How many paint jobs is your limit before deciding to go back down to bare metal. My new 70 has had one repaint in black over the original silver...When I decide to go back to the original silver should I take it back down?

I would never go with a 3rd coat of paint on a car like yours. You will need to decide how you are going to use the car and how much money you want to end up with in it. For a daily driver I'd buff out the black paint, make it presentable, and concentrate on the mechanicals. If you grow attached to the car and want to keep it long term then I'm sure you know the answer to your question.

The process Larry is going through with his targa is not quick or cheap but it's the only way to go if you are on paint job #3 (esp. with a color change).

If you don't mind me asking SATman, have you sent away for the COA to verify the color? I had spoken with the seller before the car was on ebay and the paint tag had been removed from the car. He thought there was silver under the black paint.

[Rick Cabell]

As far as how much paint piles up before is time to go the other direction.......I would say one. If you are going back to the silver after a color change, go to bare metal, as these cars are getting more valuable and the extra work , and $$ make it worth while.
As far as a favorite way to strip paint! There isn't one, they all are labor intensive. I have never found a chemical stripper that would actually work. Especially if there was more than the original paint on the car. In the past I have used a 80 grit disc on a DA and gone over the whole car after it has been completly taken apart. After the 80 grit, I go to a 120, or 180 to remove the scratches from the 80 grit. In the cracks and crannys, you can use a low pressure pressurized sandblaster with glass beads, that won't etch the metal like black beauty does.
Wurth also make a air powered tool with a nasty wire wheel on the end that is made for stripping paint and undercoating.
When going over the car with a DA, move quickly not to heat up any of the panels. Keep checking to be sure the metal is not any more than luke warm.
On my RS, I am going to send it out to be put into a media blasting tank for a Bicarbonate Soda Media tratment.
The car comes back bare metal, and the original sheet metal is not etched and the metal stays cool. I have never seen it done, but I will soon. I have seen the end result, and it's the best way I have seen yet. About $1500 to do a whole car inside and out.

[pwd72s]

praying that I never have the need for this excellent info...

[Rick Cabell]

Paul,
I hope you don't either!
Keeping using your car for it's intended purpose as you have been. The Porsche God's above will keep a eye on your good luck so far.
I have a Euro BMW 323i that I bought new at the factory, and that still has it's 100% original paint also. My clear coat is a little tired though.........actually it's have baked away!

[70SATMan]

Hey Sunday,

Yeah, Kardex is on the way. The trunk was never repainted and is in original shape. The paint tag bothered me at first but I realized the black repaint was a quality job. All glass, seals etc. out. Reattaching the paint tag is an easily forgotten detail. I have decided to live with the black awhile. It's a tough call though cause all of the seals are shot. I got to get her on the road though!

Thanks for the panel beater advice Rick. I think when that time comes I'm going to dabble myself in the strip/prep stage. I'll leave the paint to the pros. As a 16 year old kid I worked in a Dupont jobber store mixing paint, cleaning and refurbing airguns and delivering body shop materials. That was a good 20+ years ago though and stripping/blasting has come a long way.

Here is a sight I was hoping to see when I picked up the car.