I have a 70 S 2.2L with a 901 tranny that needs a new clutch.
1. What parts do I need to change when I do the clutch job.
2. this is unrelated but i also need a new bumper guard; someone backed into it.
Where is a good place to get one?
I have a 70 S 2.2L with a 901 tranny that needs a new clutch.
1. What parts do I need to change when I do the clutch job.
2. this is unrelated but i also need a new bumper guard; someone backed into it.
Where is a good place to get one?
At the minimum:
Pressure plate
Clutch disk
Throw-out bearing
Pilot bearing
Input shaft seal
Inspect flywheel and resurface if needed (usually does)
6 new flywheel bolts if flywheel comes off
1 gallon Swepco gear lube
Good idea to:
Replace worn shift linkage bushings
Inspect clutch cable, ring gear, TO fork, rear main seal and replace if necessary
Adjust valves while engine is out
Fix oil leaks while engine is out
Replace internal thermostat O-ring while engine is out.
That might be it (other than an engine transplant).
Sherwood
Remember that the "2.2 S" models all had an aluminum pressure plate as well, you will pay a bit more over the steel one but it is worth it. (less inertia to overcome, therefore, faster throttle response)
I installed a Sachs Power Clutch in my 915 and like it a lot. The rubber centered unit in the car was a real piece of junk imho. Those who have experience with these type of clutches know what I'm talking about.
The Sachs unit comes in a kit and yes, the pressure plate is aluminum. It's a nice way to have your cake and eat it too. Pedal is stiffer but not overly so. Take up and engagement are very sweet.
I'm doing the WEVO coupling as well but haven't gotten around to that part.
I did the following:
Sachs Power Clutch
New Flywheel (over-kill but cheap insurance)
Rear Main Seal (special tool needed!)
Throw Out Bearing (part of the kit)
Clutch Fork (mine is much less expensive than the 901 piece and is another instance of cheap insurance)
Clutch fork seal for the arm
New Flywheel Bolts
Transmission "boot" which is installed from inside the car.
You can replace the ring gear bolts but in most instances these are fine.
I also checked my pump timing with the engine out and replaced the thermostat "O" ring as it' easier to do with the engine out of the car.
I did order a new clutch cable but it came up short and the one in the car appeared to be fairly new and in good shape. If having the clutch tube full of grease is a good sign then I'm set because someone had pumped it full.
Good luck,
Tom
PS: I don't really care for the alignment tools that are out there for sale and as such we used an original input shaft cut off a wrecked car. The plastic ones will work but be sure to wiggle them around as you go through your tightening sequence otherwise you'll end up with a transmission that doesn't want to "go home". The steel one fits tighter and allows this wiggling better since it won't deform.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." - Dr. Seuss
"Experience is the mother of wisdom" - idiom
"Let them that don't want none, have memories of not gettin' any"- Brother Dave Gardner
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
"Good idea to:
Replace worn shift linkage bushings
Inspect clutch cable, ring gear, TO fork, rear main seal and replace if necessary
Adjust valves while engine is out
Fix oil leaks while engine is out
Replace internal thermostat O-ring while engine is out.
That might be it (other than an engine transplant)."
Sherwood
I have thought about a engine transplant but figure i love my 2.2 just fine
Thanks alot guys; this info will help me when i speak to my mechanic.
Well, we are in the process of putting in a new clutch and replacing first gear/synchros.
Does having the aluminum pressure plate make that much difference compared to the steel?
can you actually feel the difference in performance?
And is the pedal effort that much more?
The Sachs Power Clutch is an economical way to have your cake and eat it too. Pedal effort has never been a consideration for me but yes, it is a little more stiff than the stocker.
Driving trucks, farm equipment and old Corvettes made the Porsche "action" much less noticeable to me as it was always easier!
I love my new clutch and am looking forward to a WEVO now that I've acquired the easy to adjust .06 shifter assembly.
Good luck,
Tom
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." - Dr. Seuss
"Experience is the mother of wisdom" - idiom
"Let them that don't want none, have memories of not gettin' any"- Brother Dave Gardner
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
I am in desperate need for a throw out fork for my car..a new one.
Porsche has a few in germany so it will take some time to get here.
Does anyone have one laying around?...please
The throw out fork on a 901 is mighty expensive as I remember. I think they have prices listed over at Pelican. Be ready for sticker shock. The 915 on the other hand is cheap as dirt in comparison.
Good luck,
Tom
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." - Dr. Seuss
"Experience is the mother of wisdom" - idiom
"Let them that don't want none, have memories of not gettin' any"- Brother Dave Gardner
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
I have a 1970 911T with clutch problems and I was wondering what was wrong with your throw out fork?I am in desperate need for a throw out fork for my car..a new one.
I replaced the pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing, clutch cable and flywheel, but I still have problems with the adjustment. I inspected my throw out fork for bending or cracks, but could not find anything visually. It looks like a tough beefy part.
Does your mechanic have a method for checking the throw out fork? Something like magnaflux or checking some alignment points?
The 1970/71 clutch system was designed by Rube Goldberg during his brief tenure at the Porsche factory...
Thanks,
Bert Jayasekera
1970 911T - Tangerine Orange
Early 911S Registry #494
R Gruppe #167