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Thread: Mystery starting problem

  1. #11
    The directions were useless but it was an easy install. I was able to keep my stock tach and 3 pin Bosch CDI. There is an installation kit that you can buy with the trigger. I have the Pelican part numbers if anyone wants them.

    I turned the motor until the pulley mark for TDC #1 lined up on the fan housing, noted where the rotor was pointing, and removed the distributor. Remove the breaker points, installed the optical trigger so that the shutter was open, re-installed the distributor, and pushed the rotor back on making sure it was still where I noted it before.

    There were only 3 wires to connect once the trigger was installed:

    black wire -> ground
    white wire -> old points wire, black/purple wire from the Bosch CD box
    red wire -> switched 12V, bottom fuse on the fuse panel

    The car started immediately. I set the timing according to the little pocket spec book and the directions in the 101. The car starts, idles, and runs smoother through the rev range than it ever has since I have owned it. The tach is smooth and doesnt bounce at all.

    It probably took me about 2 hours total, but I had never pulled a distributor cap or set the timing on any car before I did this. If you know what you are looking at from the get-go you could do this 30 minutes.
    #711 - expires 12/05
    1972 911T - Sepia 3.2 - For Sale

  2. #12

    Intermit stalling

    Hey TKO,
    If you have checked for spark by pulling a plug (wire @ the plug) when/during this no start and saw that you had a constant spark while cranking, I would think that the "points, dwell" are not the problem. If you are checking the dwell, make sure that you connect the dwell meter @ the dist terminal and *not* @ the ign coil terminal. (Connecting @ the ign coil will lunch your CDI unit.)
    I would check the fuel pump or relay/fuse and make sure that you have fuel. Make sure that the fuse isn't corroded. HTH.
    When it dies/stalls, is the alt. light @ gauge lit?
    RGr #145
    SReg #367
    RSpec #2.7

  3. #13
    The original '72 "S" dizzy uses "backwards" points...thus a pertronix won't work...unless you switch to an RS 2.7 dizzy, then it will.
    Paul D. Early S Registry #8 - Cyclops Minister of West Coast Affairs
    "Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have the radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. 1973)

  4. #14
    6 shooter,

    The Alt. light does not come on, although I'm not entirely sure it would work. I will check the dwell as you indicated.
    Where do I find the fuel pump relay, and how do I know if it is good? How do I check the fuel pump itself, for that matter?
    Car has been fine for 2 weeks now, knock on wood.

    Regards,
    Tom
    Early 911S Reg #544

  5. #15

    Intermit. Stalling

    Hey Tom,
    The reason I asked if your alt light was on (or if fuel gauge, etc were working) was to make sure that you had current/power with the ignition in the 'on/run' position. I've seen some ignition switches 'burn-out' in the 'on/run' position from arcing between the contacts inside the ign switch.
    Since you said that you had spark, check for fuel. If fuel pump doesn't work, check if it's the fuel pump itself (motor/brushes), power (relay/fuse), or clogged fuel line/filter.... HTH.
    RGr #145
    SReg #367
    RSpec #2.7

  6. #16

    Checking fuel pump...

    Hey Tom,
    When you first turn the ign key to the 'on/run' position (without cranking the eng @ 'start' position), do you wait 10-15 seconds for the fuel lines to pressurize? Do you still have MFI?? Do you hear any fuel pump noise? If you don't, check to see if you have 12 volts @ the fuel pump with the ign key on. If not, check relay/fuse.
    If you have carbs, remove the air cleaners, move linkage and see if the accel pumps are squirting fuel down the carb throats. If it died after running for a couple of min., the fuel bowls could be empty but still have a little fuel left in the accel pump. Start again and see if it will stay running.
    If your fuel pump is working, it's possible that the line/filter is clogged. If you don't feel comfortable cracking a line (more importantly, tightening it w/o having a fuel leak!!), call a flat bed and tow to your mechanic.
    Intermit problems are always a pain... if it problem doesn't happen when your mechanic has the car.... Either drive it only on short, local runs until the part fails or leave it with your *trusted* mechanic to drive/test it until they can duplicate/isolate the problem. HTH.
    RGr #145
    SReg #367
    RSpec #2.7

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