How can I put 911S brakes on my 67 911 normal?

[Shawn]

Sorry, I searched and cannot find the discussion that covered the conversion for swb non S 67/68 cars to S spec brakes. This can be done with early swb S brake calipers and rotors. But, the wider/longer S brake caliper bolt pattern requires upgrading the front and rear suspension components to include???

TT has done this. Bud, are you out there. (and Tom, are you racing in Phoenix this summer? I need pit crew experience.)

Thanks in advance. Shawn.

edit: for grammer and spelling this tyme.

[bob tilton]

also interested in the info. thanks for posting shawn .

[larry47us]

I had heard the same, but I thought that S Calipers were only needed (or used) in the front. That the calipers and rotors in the rear are the same in the S as in the Normal (E and T). Is that so?

Also, is there a way of upgrading the brakes' performance without going to the expense of putting on S calipers and the suspension changes it requires? Like using drilled rotors, etc?

larry

[Shawn]

Your car already has the hot set up. If you wish to be certain...look for vented brake rotors and inspect for front and rear sway bars. You will find them in place.

My 70T, with many S options . Has 911S spec brakes, and sway bars, and guages, and...all those other neat goodies mentioned in the Max Moritz Autohaus purchase agreement that came with car. (obvious advertisement)

However, my 67 normal is without.

The early (67-68) short wheel base 911 normal cars have solid disc rotors and smaller brake calipers that are specific in size. With this post, I am after early swb 911 car owners that may have performed a 911S brake system upgrade, that may also post helpful information...including a list of the needed parts, installation tips, and/or any additional information regarding this upgrade. I want to do this for both the front and rear brakes of the car. Thanks in advance.

Shawn.

[Shuie]

I don't have a SWB car so I apologize ahead of time if any of this is incorrect.

To run the S-calipers you are going to need struts that have 3.5" spacing. I don't think you will have this on a SWB car. If you already have 3.5" struts, then you are set. Just bolt the calipers on and go. If you don't, you may want to look swapping the entire front suspension from a later car in.

[Shawn]

Shuie. Go to the head of the line. Thanks for providing the numbers. Good show, my man.

Shawn.

edit: Hey, Wait! I just read that Shuie has a hooligan car! Dood, you rock. We early car hooligans have to keep the faith.

[larry47us]

Shuie:
I thought that Mike had told me that changing to S calipers required major changes to the front suspension. I didn't know that it involved changing out the entire front suspension.

Shawn:
My car has a lot of S upgrades, front and rear sway bars, front S steel spoiler and S guages, but it doesn't have S calipers. I know that for a fact. I asked Mike about the upgrade while he had the car apart. Besides the cost of the Calipers themselves, there is the suspension issue. It became a large expense.

BTW, the green dot means that this person is currently on line.

larry

[Shuie]

Shawn, I think the green dot means we are online here. Don't take my word for it on the S-caliper conversion. Honestly, I've never worked on a swb car, so what I posted my not be applicable.

If the front suspension from a later car will swap in, you will have a lot of options. I've got brakes from a '87 Carrera and '73 S Koni struts on my '72T with factory through the body sways. It's nice that these cars are so interchangeable.

[Shawn]

I will be under 70T this evening. Like that sucks.

Still need help with the SWB upgrade issue though.

Shawn.

[Shuie]

Larry, I dont doubt that you can change the calipers without changing the front suspension. However, swapping an entire suspension will give you a lot of options.

Isn't it about twice as expensive to replace the balljoints on the SWB a-arms as it is on the later a-arms? I know the parts are more expensive in the catalogs. Will the SWB balljoints/wedgepins even work with a later 3.5" strut?

One good thing is that you can refresh everything (tie rods, ball joints, strut inserts, brakes, t-bars, bushings, sways) to new condition while your car is still being driven on the old suspension. Once everything is bolted together ready to go in, you can put the car on jackstands and swap everything within a few hours. Downtime would be minimal and you would have a completely new front end