Heater Valve Studs

[wit61]

THis has not been the best month for Pcar wrenching. After multiple overnight soakings with liquid wrench, I finally tried to loosen the nuts on the heater valve which was corroded and broken. Two of the studs broke rather than let go of their nuts Needless to say, I did not move on to the driver's side since that side is only mildly corroded, and works. I'm sure I'm not the first person to have this happen. Since I live in a part of the country where heat is helpful at times, what are the recommended remedies for this condition ?

[Wolf Knierim]

Been there. Grind out the broken studs flush to the surface, drill and tap out where the old studs were and use bolts to mount the heater flaps or skip a step and use large self tapping screws. Using a right angle drill attachment made it easier to access that area. Wolfgang

[RandyWebb]

Kroil or pb blaster might be better than Liq. Wrench on the other one. Tap many many times to help it get down there.

On the studs, I'd try a vice grip first. Worst case is you have less to grind off.

[6 Shooter]

If you have room and no gas fumes, I would use heat. Oxy/acetylene with a small tip, heat the nut and let it cool. The heat/expansion and eventual contraction (explosion? make *sure* no gas leaks/fumes ) should break the rust bond... unless the rust has eaten away the stud. If the metal is gone/thin, it's going to break anyways. If you don't have an oxy/acet setup available, go to Home Depot and pickup one of the small propane or Mapp gas torch setups, probably under $30. And a fire extinguisher to be safe, if you don't have one already. Don't want to be going from bad to worse.
It's not original, but I replace the OE exhaust nuts with brass nuts. Also, use anti-seize compound when putting it back together. HTH.

[6 Shooter]

Why have a fire extinguisher ready?? the WD40, Liquid Wrench, Pb Blaster, Kroil will probably lite up. Be safe....

[roblav]

I agree with trying to use oxy-acetylene. Another alternative is to arc weld (or MiG) a nut on each broken stud, then heat the stud area with a torch (fine tip) and loosen. If you heat the stud (without welding on a nut) and try to back it off with vice grips, you may get the stud too hot and it will collapse.

[Wolf Knierim]

Roblav,
My heater valve studs were welded to the frame, screwing them out was not an option, I think this might be your case also. The above ideas are good ones for trying to remove the nuts on the studs that have not broken off yet. Of course your big problem is what to do with the broken studs you have now. Break them off, grind them off, what ever works. If your good with a mig welder you can weld new ones on. If not, drill and tap the frame and install the valves with bolts.

Wolfgang

[wit61]

Thanks for all the advice. Since they are welded to the frame as mentioned, I ground them off and drilled a hole. THis weekend I'll attempt to tap them and use bolts. It's not the most accessible area, so it will be a challenge.