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Thread: sway bar setup for SWB ?

  1. #1
    Defender of the Normal John Fusco's Avatar
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    sway bar setup for SWB ?

    Did a search but came up with nothing.
    My car has its original 15mm front sway bar but no rear bar.
    I was going to put on a 16 mm rear bar as per the stock S but was wondering if there might be a better way to go.
    I'll check the front bushings first and new Koni's for the rear, lower the car and then see how it feels . Also may put track rubber on my phone dials (alot cheaper than R Fuchs)
    I want to do DE this summer - and take it to NHIS and Limerock but don't plan on doing any serious racing...for now.

    Thanks;

    John

    Du must schwein haben

    901/05 #305701

    Bultaco Metralla 62 M8
    1968 BMW R69S

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  2. #2
    I'll just share my set-up, hopefully that will help you a little.
    On my 911L, which basically has the same suspension parts a '67 S, I am running without the rear bar because I swapped in some banana arms that don't have the connection for the swaybar. The car is lowered and I am running some negative camber, about 2deg front and 2.5deg in the rear. With 195-60 Yokohama A008s, and with 205-50 Toyo RA-1s I find the car pretty neutral without the rear bar. I am afraid with the rear bar that the inside rear tire would get light and spin at autocrosses.
    Joe
    Now - 1993 C2
    Past - 1968 911L

  3. #3
    I run the 15mm bars that came on my 68 along with the Konis. The big difference was with 22 and 28 mm Torsion bars and 1.5 degrees of negative camber. It could not handle any better on the track. It is a bit stiff on the street but still very fun.

    Best,

    Don

  4. #4
    Defender of the Normal John Fusco's Avatar
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    I am assuming my car has the original torsion bars - 23 and ?
    My worry is also with the fact that those rear tires don't need much more incentive to let go.
    The R had stock S fronts and rear. I am of the feeling that no matter how long I experiment I could NEVER come up with a better set up than the Porsche engineers, or drive it any harder than Vic and Gerard ,etc. So when (if) I do go with rear sways I will prob go with 16's.
    Unless the age of the car makes a difference.(?).
    All you with 205's - did you have to roll the fenders or are you rich folk with R Fuchs ?

    Thanks for helping;

    John

    Du must schwein haben

    901/05 #305701

    Bultaco Metralla 62 M8
    1968 BMW R69S

    Early911SReg #606

  5. #5
    I am not sure how big the original torsion bars are but 23 sounds high to me. Better technology exists today to set these cars up better than Porsche ever did in the day. Imagine how good these drivers were to go fast in those old cars.

    Don

  6. #6
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ValveFloat
    I find the car pretty neutral without the rear bar. I am afraid with the rear bar that the inside rear tire would get light and spin at autocrosses.
    I think the SWB cars are definitely more neutral without the rear bar. I run 18mm bars front and rear on my '67S and it is a very loose setup, but loose is fast at an autox. You want to get the car to rotate easily around slow corners. A little toe-out in the front will help, too. My '67S car is a joy to throttle steer at autox speeds, but I don't think I would like it thru turns 8 & 9 at Willow Springs. Disconnecting the rear bar is an old trick to tighten them up, if that fits your driving style, or to calm down the rear end for bigger tracks. A little toe-in in the front will help make it less darty and twitchy on the big track as well.

    AFAIK, 18.8 and 23mm were the stock T-bar sizes in '67. I never knew they went down to 22mm in '68. They moved the rears up to 24.1mm when they cars started getting heavier, I know, and used 26mm rears on the first Turbos. I had 21F and 26R bars on my '66 and that is the ideal compromise setup for a car that is still street driven, with the stock swaybars, IMHO. Very well balanced, and not too stiff over bumps. Bigger swaybars and stiffer shocks contribute more to a jarring ride than bigger torsion bars.

    I did not have to roll my fenders with 205/60s on 6" rims, but I did with 205/50s on 7" rims (standard 23mm offset, not "R" rims).

    TT
    Tom Tweed
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by John Fusco
    All you with 205's - did you have to roll the fenders or are you rich folk with R Fuchs ?
    205-50-15s fit fine on my car with regular 6" Fuchs, no fender modifications necessary.
    Joe
    Now - 1993 C2
    Past - 1968 911L

  8. #8
    On the 1964 I ended with Torsion bars 22F and 27R with a front adjustable sway bar at 19F and experimented with a adjustable 19R - ended with a 16R and disconnecting it at places like Mid Ohio, Heartland.

    1964, 1965 and 1966 stock Torsion bars are 19F and 23R. Anyone want any - I've got a few sets?

    I've got the old Weltmister U bolts and stand-off blocks to mount a rear sway bar on an early car - the U bolts go around the outside of the torsion bar tube - anybody interesed? about $10.

    Bob

  9. #9
    Defender of the Normal John Fusco's Avatar
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    I will have to try 205's.
    From what I understand these cars were ALWAYS problematic on a quick series of turns. Overstear-understear, take your pick.
    Actualy to me that's kinda their charm.
    Good to hear your input TT - Thanks;

    John

    Du must schwein haben

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    Bultaco Metralla 62 M8
    1968 BMW R69S

    Early911SReg #606

  10. #10
    Defender of the Normal John Fusco's Avatar
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    Hey Bob....

    How do those attach ? Will they work for any size bar ?
    What is the technology that overides the calculations of Zuffenhausen ? The rubber ?

    John

    Du must schwein haben

    901/05 #305701

    Bultaco Metralla 62 M8
    1968 BMW R69S

    Early911SReg #606

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