Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 30

Thread: Advice Needed. Project in Crisis!!!

  1. #1

    Advice Needed. Project in Crisis!!!

    After a 2 years of disassembling my 1970 911S Targa and meticulously rebuilding every component it was time to have the chassis stripped, repaired and painted. This was to be the home stretch. Sit back and have the body done as I await to assemble all my hard work on the chassis.

    After the the body was media blasted more was revealed then I would like to reveal. I have owned the car for five years, how could I not have noticed these things? I then had the body delivered to a well respected metal repairman and had him appraise the work required.
    This is the estimate:
    ~$2000 for the metal parts from the usual vendors?
    ~$15000 for the labor. 300Hours to do it right.
    ~Paint extra.

    So as you can imagine I am confused what to do at this point. I literally have a fully restored car minus a chassis at this point.

    These are the options that I feel are available

    Sell the drive train and parts and walk away. (I would be sad)
    Find a new chassis and not have a numbers matching car. (Value?)
    Slap the thing together and go into denial. (I didn't see that!)
    Find buyer that does metal work that can do the repair and assemble the car for themselves. My loss is your gain!)

    What would you do???

    Any advice would be appreciated.
    1970 911S Targa
    On the road again soon.

  2. #2
    Over 7 weeks in metal work? For a show car maybe. The very first time I put new longitudinals in a 911, I did each side in 8 hrs. The front suspension pan in about the same. Just the fitting and welding. My car was stripped like yours is. Lock posts were about 4 hrs. ea. I spent a lot of time bumping metal. Each rear fender was a day and a half to acheive my satisfaction.

    So, where are we? 8+8+8+4+12+12=52. Well, I spent some time on the doors, too. One, I should have thrown away in favor of a good used one. Same with the front fenders. But what the hey, let's throw in another 24 hrs. I did some patching of the front bulkhead behind the front bumper. Add another 4 hrs. Now, we're at about 2 weeks.

    Where the hell is the other five weeks in your car? If you need a new rear torsion tube, that's a biggie, I'm told. The parts in that area are pricey as well. That's got to be it, right? OK, I'll be generous here; one week for that.

    4 weeks left over. Now, if you are talking about him readying the car for paint right down to the last pinhole, that might use up the rest of the time line. Great paint can be expensive on its own. 8-10K for show quality, but not necessarily concours.

    It's your decision, of course, but you have to separate the work you expected from the work you didn't expect. Now, the $50/hr that I came up with at his rate sounds very reasonable. But, does the amount of time budgeted sound right to you? As I said, ignore the paint prep, you were in for that anyway.

    The torsion tube would be the deal breaker for me in view of the other work I mentioned having to be done. What exactly is wrong with the car?

  3. #3
    I would find another body shop and see what they said.

  4. #4
    I dunno man...I think I'd be buying a nice little mig and the necessary tools and begin that project myself and only farm out the areas that are critical beyond mere mortals. I'm actually about to consider doing the same myself with a '70 E coupe tub I want to buy...but my path will be that of a lightweight bomb with all 'glass components added.
    Paul Schooley
    71 911T (RS wanabe w/2.7L juice)
    S Reg #863
    R Gruppe #330

  5. #5
    Time Bandit Jens's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    vahmont
    Posts
    4,160
    Bob, send the car elsewhere to get the work done. I have a feeling you've been quoted Beverly Hills money. There are many shops with skilled people that will get it done right and not rape you on price.

    Zitronengelb R1012 the RatBasterd
    RGruppe #183

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Suffolk, VA
    Posts
    380
    You need a second opinion.

    I've welded in a new torsion tube in a Targa before, and it is no fun. Agree with Milt - where are all the hours? He's pulling your string to see how far he can go (or how much he can milk the cow).

    Rob
    1970 911S Coupe (Burgundrot) (sold)
    1967 911 Coupe (Light Ivory) (mostly gone)
    1966 911 Coupe (Sand Beige) (sold)
    Van Diemen RF99 Formula Continental
    Citation F1000 on the way
    Van Diemen Hayabusa SCCA Formula S (sale pending)
    Other Early 911/912/914

  7. #7
    The last "concours quality" paint job I saw on a car that was very nearly perfect to begin with cost $15,000 and that was a deal. The coachwork can generally (unless you are Kurt Zimmerman) run up a very large bill vs. the mechanical end of things.
    Off topic but along the same subject: I referred a gent to a friend of mine for some BMW MC work. The owner seems competent but some things are beyond his grasp and he farms it out. Unfortunately, as with most farming, it has not been good to him and as such he has about $16,000 in a bike that on a good day might crack $10,000 (however, very unlikely). He's buried in it.
    Another fellow who wanted his engine/transmission rebuilt (and I would not do it) got his just rewards by paying $4,600 and change. A Helluva bill, mind you, and he too is buried as his total is approaching $12,500 and the bike is still in pieces . He is looking at a $3,500 assembly/parts bill. The bike is worth, maybe $12,000. This sort of economics sucks.
    Where am I going? If you are not "Zeke", not related to the folks who run Andial or any of the other engine builders, and have minimal skills (no shame there) you should buy the best there is and leave the restorations to those who do them for a living.
    The best deal is to find a car that someone else has already been "bled out" and buy that one. Sounds harsh, but it's the truth.

    Best of luck; I wish I could help you,

    Tom
    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  8. #8
    "The best deal is to find a car that someone else has already been "bled out" and buy that one. Sounds harsh, but it's the truth."

    One of those truths I have learned again and again every time saying "I will never do that again" But it sneaks up on you . You know you have been driven this car for a couple of years, 5 for instance then you think "hey I like it, I'll fixe all those things and make it nice" Truth is you would be better off selling the car and spending three times what you ever thought you would fixing yours up and be money and agravation ahead. I picked up a race car for a freind that was at a paint shop near Chico, Base paint job not including diss. or reassy. and no body work was $10.000.00.

    Tom[/QUOTE]

  9. #9
    DIY *DOES* involve a high level of commitment, determination and learned skill. It is truly for the guy who enjoys that sort of thing. At this point in time, listen to what the guys are saying about a second opinion. Your cost will depend on the level of perfection you're after. Concours anything is going to cost you considerably more than 'good enough' for the streets. BTW guys, does anyone have any closeup photos of a 911 class rotissiere? I'm gonna need to build one soon.
    Paul Schooley
    71 911T (RS wanabe w/2.7L juice)
    S Reg #863
    R Gruppe #330

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    442
    Perhaps for sake of discussion we could see some pictures of the metal work/rust repair that is being done. By the time you do inner/outer rockers,jack posts,lock posts,front pan,door bottoms and headlight buckets - you're certainly looking at a good deal of prep work. Do the best prep work and fabrication that you can afford first - this will ensure that the car lasts for years. It would be a shame to leave rust in the car only for it to get out of hand a few years from now. The shops on the east coast regulary charge 15-20k for metal and paint - I don't know how you guys are finding cheaper $$. Don't loose the faith - make a game plan and stick to it!! Best of luck.

Similar Threads

  1. Advice needed: Engine Pad – Yes or No?
    By uptheorg in forum General Info
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 10-20-2012, 04:01 AM
  2. Tensioner help - advice needed
    By SRL in forum Technical Info
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 07-26-2012, 12:31 PM
  3. 944 Wiper Mod advice needed
    By Andy B in forum Technical Info
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-20-2010, 02:11 PM
  4. Please - ADVICE NEEDED - Please!
    By M491 in forum Technical Info
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-02-2008, 03:13 PM
  5. Advice Needed on a '72 911 2.4 S Restoration
    By Guru in forum Technical Info
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 05-19-2007, 06:08 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Message Board Disclaimer and Terms of Use
This is a public forum. Messages posted here can be viewed by the public. The Early 911S Registry is not responsible for messages posted in its online forums, and any message will express the views of the author and not the Early 911S Registry. Use of online forums shall constitute the agreement of the user not to post anything of religious or political content, false and defamatory, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise to violate the law and the further agreement of the user to be solely responsible for and hold the Early 911S Registry harmless in the event of any claim based on their message. Any viewer who finds a message objectionable should contact us immediately by email. The Early 911S Registry has the ability to remove objectionable messages and we will make every effort to do so, within a reasonable time frame, if we determine that removal is necessary.