Oil getting hot, hot, hot...

[kenikh]

I had some problems this weekend running through the hills and mountains of Eastern Washington with my oil temps. I was admittedly running the car hard, with regular stretches going uphill at 5K-7k RPM and ambient temp was high (~90 degrees F). I was readily hitting 240 on the oil temp gauge, which made me quite unhappy. For comparison, I normally run in the 180 - 210 range in town. My setup is:

2.0S
11 blade fan
Stock external radiator style oil cooler in front right fender well
Behr on engine oil cooler
Castrol 20W-50 (new oil)
40mm Webers
SSI HEs
Stock muffler

What was disconcerting was that guys without external coolers weren't seeing over 200 degrees and they were running just as hard as I was. I don't think the thermostat on the external cooler is bad; I could hear oil percolating through it when I had the car idling and I'd put my ear up to the wheel well.

One caveat; I regularly get popping coming from the exhaust. I used to chalk it up to a possible leak in the exhaust, but now I am wondering if I am running lean (I haven't checked the plugs yet). Would this be a possible cause of really hot oil temps? Would the high altitude (2K - 5K ft) have exacerbated the condition? If the thermostat on the on-engine cooler were stuck closed, would oil still be getting to the external cooler?

I am baffled by the whole thing. I just want to get my temps down so I can thrash my "two-oh" enough to keep up with the boys with big bores.

Thanks in advance.

[sithot]

Check your plugs. You may very well be running lean. If your thermostat isn't opening that's another problem. I was talking with a fellow the other day that had an external "console" thermostat that was sticking and not allowing oil to the cooler. The one on the engine should be checked as well. Are you sure your gauge is correct? Lots of questions to ponder.
The 2.0 liter cars run pretty cool to begin with or at least it's been my experience. I'm guessing tracking the car can put added heat into it but this is a bit much. Fatten her up! She'll like it and so will you.

Good luck,

Tom

[Steve@Rennsport]

Kenik:

240 deg in a 2.0 S is FAR too hot.

As Tom suggested, check and made sure that the oil cooler thermostat is opening and that the front cooler is warm/hot to the touch.

If you get a chance, post your jetting that is currently in your Webers and I'll look to see if thats reasonable for your engine.

I'd need sizes for:

Idle jets
Main jets
Emulsion tubes
Air corrector jets

[kenikh]

Kenik:

make sure that the oil cooler thermostat is opening and that the front cooler is warm/hot to the touch.

Yes, very hot, especially near the top of the wheel well shield and much cooler near the louvers. Is this normal?

If you get a chance, post your jetting that is currently in your Webers and I'll look to see if thats reasonable for your engine.

I'd need sizes for:

Idle jets
Main jets
Emulsion tubes
Air corrector jets

I'll have to make my first foray into carb jetting this weekend, I guess. I'll pull the plugs and post the details when I find out. BTW, where are the thermostats for the oil coolers?
Thanks!

[rick2]

Are your air hoses from the shroud to your exhaust connected? These can become aged and fall apart like my knee. Summer months or sporting jaunts you can disconnect these lines and cap off with a Wurth spray can cap. This will get more air over your cylinders. Of coarse this is if you can not find the problem elsewhere as stated above.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Yes, very hot, especially near the top of the wheel well shield and much cooler near the louvers. Is this normal?



I'll have to make my first foray into carb jetting this weekend, I guess. I'll pull the plugs and post the details when I find out. BTW, where are the thermostats for the oil coolers?
Thanks!

If the lines going into the cooler are hot to the touch when your oil temp gauge is reading 180 or above, one can presume that its getting some oil through it.

Get me that list of jetting,...

Remember, unless you do a real, honest-to-God plug cut, looking at the plugs after its idled for a minute or two is virtually worthless. Spark plugs permit a snapshot view off cylinder conditions and mixture strength, but only if one does the procedure correctly. Send me an e-mail directly and I'll get you the instructions on how to perform a proper plug cut. It takes a fair amount of experience to read what's there accurately,....................

[kenikh]

I have an old ColorTune. Would that provide any value? I've never used it...

[Steve@Rennsport]

I have an old ColorTune. Would that provide any value? I've never used it...

LOL,..Since you can't see the thing, they are worthless on a 911.

Something like an Innovative LM-1 is VERY useful,........

[Eric911S]

Hello: Just thought, if your engine runs at 200 degrees in town that is still a bit hot for a 2.0. I would check your ignition timing and also the advance in the distributor to see if it's working. I've seen these stick alot. Also check the jets in the carbs as the others have said as well. I use 32 Main Venturis, 180 air corr,F3 emul, and 135 mains with 60 idles. This is a great starting point. Let us know what you find. Thanks Eric

[RSwannabe]

As a reference and as clarification, I was one of the refered to people running with Kenik without an external oil cooler. I have a '69E with a factory 2.2S without the front (external) oil cooler. I was seeing peak temps of around 210. This was at 5,000 feet+ elevation, 90+ degrees ambient, and extended hard excelleration uphill. I normally only see 180 around town.

Brooke

Kenik, let me know if you want a hand with the carbs (not that I know anything).