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Thread: 7R Fuchs finish

  1. #1

    7R Fuchs finish

    Another way to refresh 7R Fuchs in poor condition(too oxyded to be polished and anodised) These has been first painted in light grey and finished with satin black.
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    #rennfrog

  2. #2
    i think that looks really great! I have been tempted to paint my deeps 6s in a flat grey. my concern would be time and wear.
    is the grey a primer or flat grey finish paint? any sort of clear matte/flat finish on top of the grey?
    _B
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  3. #3
    Righteous Indignation 70SATMan's Avatar
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    Powdercoat may be an option Bob for more durability but, I don't know how difficult it would be to strip if needed. That guy in Florida that powder coated a set of 7Rs is still trying to unload them and that was what, almost two years ago. So, I don't know.

    I think a deep dark flat gray on your car would look BadA$$. Course bout anything you do ends up looking sweet.
    Michael
    “Electricity is really just organized lightning”

    -Dusty 70S Coupe
    -S Registry #586

  4. #4
    OliveR, what grey paint did you use?
    Jim Richards
    Aubergine 1973 911E Sunroof Coupe w/ 2.7RS MFI
    Early 911S Registry Member #589
    GruppeB #911

  5. #5
    I think I recall there being issues with powder coating and the heat involved with the aluminum. Don't think I'd touch anodized with a ten foot pole. However, those painted ones look interesting. One would assume that since they're inside the rim area they would be fairly well protected if the car was used on relatively clean streets. Is there some sort of satin clear coat that would help protect them?
    Paul Schooley
    71 911T (RS wanabe w/2.7L juice)
    S Reg #863
    R Gruppe #330

  6. #6
    There are a number of "water clear" finishes used in the hardware industry.

    Do you really think the temps in PC would be too high for AL? Shoot, AL doesn't melt until 1300*. At what point does it anneal?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by 70SATMan
    Powdercoat may be an option Bob for more durability but, I don't know how difficult it would be to strip if needed.
    They put them into a "hot" oven and the finish will cook off. Seen it, had it done. Works fine. It's what most good coaters will do to purge any impurities out. A lot of prep goes into a good job. Once the old finish is baked off it's washed and then quite literally sprayed with a water based rust inhibitor.

    If the guy is really sharp he will "flock" the parts before he shoots. This is a process where they pre-heat the item to be shot. It creates a better base to apply the coating to and will nix anything like a "Faraday Cage" (where the charged particles don't adhere where you want them to because of magnetic fields.

    How a Faraday cage works:

    "A Faraday cage is best understood as an approximation to an ideal hollow conductor. Electric fields produce forces on the charge carriers (i.e., electrons) within the conductor. As soon as an electric field is applied to the surface of an ideal conductor, it generates a current that causes displacement of charge inside the conductor that cancels the applied field inside." www.reference.com

    More better???

    This is more of a problem with chrome work but on things like motorcycle frames and I suppose even a complicated roll bar it's a factor.
    "Flocking" is a big help.

    Powder is going to cost a lot more than paint but it does hold up pretty well. Doing 2 colors is out of the question. You could get the gray done but the second coat of whatever color you use will likely have to sprayed on via a "can".

    Best,

    Tom
    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by JimR
    OliveR, what grey paint did you use?
    It's "gris lumineux satin RAL 7035",first i use grey primer,satin grey ,satin black and clear matte finish.
    #rennfrog

  9. #9
    OOPS...my apologies. I meant the heat from powder coating, not anodizing. What I seem to recall was that the heat from powder coating didn't melt the aluminum but rather altered it's properties. Of course this is second hand information and I could be totally wrong. I'm sure an expert in this field could set the record straight
    Paul Schooley
    71 911T (RS wanabe w/2.7L juice)
    S Reg #863
    R Gruppe #330

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Schooley
    OOPS...my apologies. I meant the heat from powder coating, not anodizing. What I seem to recall was that the heat from powder coating didn't melt the aluminum but rather altered it's properties. Of course this is second hand information and I could be totally wrong. I'm sure an expert in this field could set the record straight
    Hey, Paul. One of the members of the First Settlers Region had the wheels on
    her 993 done in a florescent PINK color. It's a track car and I don't think it's an issue because she's got a lot of miles on it already. FWIW, the "cooking" is done at around 400 degrees for not more than 15-30 minutes.

    They also use an abrasive aluminum oxide media to clean as well.

    Best,

    Tom
    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

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