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Thread: Suspension Refurb

  1. #1

    Suspension Refurb

    I'm about to have work started on the overhall of the suspension on my '69. I've been picking everybody's brains about various details. Thanks to those who have shared their opinions so far. Here's the plan my mechanic and I have at the moment. This would be primarily for road use but looking toward doing more DE/track events etc.

    Install:

    Poly/bronze control arm bushings
    Low Friction Control Arm mounts
    Offset Camber Plates
    Koni Adjustable Shock Inserts (I have Koni struts)
    Adjustable Anti-roll bar
    Rack Spacer Bump Steer kit
    Strut Brace

    Poly/Bronze Spring Plate bushings
    Weather Sealed Monoballs
    Koni Shocks
    Anti-roll bar, reinforced mounts
    Rear Camber adjuster kit

    Lower and Align

    Does it make sense to go this far and not change the torsion bars? Several of you had also emphasized the importance of corner balancing as part of the alignment work. My mechanic had discouraged both these things but I think he was trying to keep me from spending every last penny I have. I think this is an all or nothing type of thing. If I push him for the corner balance should I also consider adjustable spring plates?

    Last but not least (this is a big one) am I crossing over the line between reasonable restoration/subtle upgrade and building a hotrod/track car? It all started with the fact that a factory original replacement for spring plate bushings is no longer an option. Once I decided on the Poly/Bronze bushings upgrading the other components seemed logical.

    Once again thanks for any bits of wisdom and advice.
    A.T.
    Early 911S Registry Member #500

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,098
    I am certainly no expert but my '73 is a road car with some interest in AX and the possible DE. I spent a bunch of time discussing what I needed with Steve Weiner and after careful consideration ended up only replacing my dead rear springplate bushes with Neatrix units, replaced my boge inserts and KYB rears with HD bilstien inserts and Sport rears. The car was sent to Rothsport for lower/align/corner balance. I have stock rear springplates.

    Why not elephant rears? Two reasons, cost and a desire for a nice steet ride. The elphant product is, by all accounts, excellent but the ride becomes a bit more harsh. Monoballs will also contribute to a harsher ride.

    I already have 19 mm front and rear adjustable sways so they remained. I also opted to keep my stock t-bars in the interest of a comfy street ride.

    My front bushes did not get any replacement because, on inspection, the bushes appeared to be ok.

    If you mechanic is saying no corner balance, I think you ought to consider another shop. It does matter if you compete. Also, a good "porsche speed shop" does not change much more than an ordinary porsche shop for this type of worka nd you will get good value for your money.

    Anyhow, my $0.02.
    Harry

    Member #789
    1970 VW Sunroof Kombi Bus - "The Magic Bus"
    1973.5 911T Targa for fun - "Smokey"
    2009 MB C300

  3. #3

    Suspension upgrades

    A.T.: Since you sent me the last e-mail, I was thinking I would just do one end of the car at a time. This will give you time to save more money for the rest of the job. I would start with the back end and do Netrix bushings like I told you before and save the monoballs for when you have the engine out later. I would also change the rear shocks and add a rear sway bar. Doing this will give you some idea of the ride you will get. If you decide to go more of a track setup then you could do adjustable spring plates and torsion bars and monoballs. I use Porsche bushings on street cars instead of the monoballs since they give a better ride and also don't need looking at like the monoballs. I would make a nice riding street car, not a full race car for what you are doing. I would also think about doing some of it yourself. The front end is very easy compaired to the rear and you will find lots of info to help you along the way. If you start with the rear shocks, it will take you about a day the first time and a good Saturday project while it's still cold. Lastly a good alignment and corner balancing really helps to make the car easier to drive on the track. Thanks Eric

  4. #4
    Thanks Eric Thanks Harry

    The engine is out at the moment. I haven't heard much about the Netrix bushings. What are they like? Do they have any of the issues like the Polyurethane units? Noise etc.?
    A.T.
    Early 911S Registry Member #500

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,098
    THe Neatrix bushes are a "rubber" like material that does not seem to have the issues that Poly has. Once you get the springplates outof your car, they are an easy install.

    As noted by Eric, if you are somewhat mechanically inclined, you can save some dollars by changing your own shocks and struts.

    I differ in opinion of doing each end of the car in turn. do it all at one time. You will need to get an alignment/corner balnce each time and why pay for it twice?

    Best of luck,
    Harry

    Member #789
    1970 VW Sunroof Kombi Bus - "The Magic Bus"
    1973.5 911T Targa for fun - "Smokey"
    2009 MB C300

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