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Thread: Rust removal and painting help

  1. #1

    Rust removal and painting help

    Hi everybody

    Last night I removed some surface rust from the inside front floor of the luggage compartment, towards the right battery tray. There were some rust along a seem that joins the floor and the front part behind the fender. (not the best description, apologies for my English). The area is about 2cm*15cm. I first used a metal brush wheel on a high speed drill, then sandblasted the rust with a point blaster(very small closed system that blast an area of about 1,5" at a time). The reason I had to use the metal wire wheel was that I had to remove the paint, primer, some black thick material that looks the same as the original undercoating and then a inner layer of primer.

    I am now going to bring it back the way it should look like the surrounding area. What is the best product to use on the metal to treat and prevent it from ever rusting again? (I have read about something called POR 15 or something)

    I guess I use a primer on top of that?

    and then the black stuff, what product is that and where can i get it? And how do I get it to have the right texture(same texture as the undercoating)

    then primer again and on top of that the original colour

    The primer I have is a epoxy car primer that the car painters use


    John
    Early 911S Registry #931
    --------------------------------
    1971 911 2.2S Coupe Albert Blue
    1971 911 2.2T Coupe Tangerine
    2005 997 C2S Coupe special 1965 slate grey
    1978 911 3.0 SC Targa Silver w/chrome trim

  2. #2
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zithlord
    (I have read about something called POR 15 or something)
    POR-15 is good stuff, I have used it for rust repairs for years and it has worked very well. Follow the directions and use their Metal Prep before the double coating of POR-15, then topcoat it when it is just slightly tack-free, and it will last for a long time with no recurrence of the rust. Here's a link to their website.

    TT
    Tom Tweed
    Early S Registry #257
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  3. #3

    Por-15

    Thank you for responding to my question. I have found a supplyer in UK that can ship to Norway. I just wondered if you had the exact name or product numbers both for the metal prep and the POR-15? The two products I need)
    On the supplyers web page they have something called "POR 15 Metal Ready" Is this the metal prep?

    John
    Norway
    Early 911S Registry #931
    --------------------------------
    1971 911 2.2S Coupe Albert Blue
    1971 911 2.2T Coupe Tangerine
    2005 997 C2S Coupe special 1965 slate grey
    1978 911 3.0 SC Targa Silver w/chrome trim

  4. #4
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zithlord
    On the supplyers web page they have something called "POR 15 Metal Ready" Is this the metal prep?
    Yes. They sell a degreaser (Marine Clean) for cleaning, then the Metal Ready is an acid wash you leave on for 20m minutes and rinse off, then the POR-15 paint goes down when it is bone dry.

    TT
    Tom Tweed
    Early S Registry #257
    R Gruppe #232
    Rennlist Founding Member #990416-1164
    PCA National DE Instructor
    Read my surf novel!

  5. #5
    I highly recommend the POR 15 there Zithlord. I used it to restore the metal of my 71's interior (rear shelf, seat area, floor, etc) and I'm currently using it on the ledge area for the front hood seal. One cool trick to using it is to just puncture the lid without opening the can on each side (one for a breather) and simply tape over it when done using. That will preserve the product inside for future use and avoid any contamination.

    NOTE: Don't get that stuff on your skin or your friends will think you've become a leper for the next many, many days...it don't come off to easily.

    Paul Schooley
    71 911T (RS wanabe w/2.7L juice)
    S Reg #863
    R Gruppe #330

  6. #6
    Blessed be the lowered RickS's Avatar
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    Paul,

    Excellent tip!

    Warning, be sure to keep the lip of the can as well as the rim of the lip clean of any POR-15. If you don't, there is the potential that one will 'weld' itself to the other and you won't be able to open the can - then you will need to use Paul's tip.
    71 914 3.0, 82 SC, ESR 376, RG 307

    "The problem with the world is, the ignorant are cock-sure and the intelligent are full of doubt." Bertram Russell

  7. #7
    Goldmember ttweed's Avatar
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    I have always just followed the directions from the manufacturer to try to keep the POR-15 off the top and rim of the can when dispensing it to a separate container, and then put a layer of plastic "clingwrap" between them before resealing the can. The "puncture and tape" method sounds pretty neat! I will try that next time. The other factory tips for use are to never work directly out of the can, never return unused paint to the can, refrigerate the leftover portion to increase shelf life, and use rubber gloves, as after it dries on your skin, it cannot be removed, it just has to wear off. All this is contained in a little flyer they send out with the product entitled "Directions for People Who Never Read Directions" or something like that.

    TT
    Tom Tweed
    Early S Registry #257
    R Gruppe #232
    Rennlist Founding Member #990416-1164
    PCA National DE Instructor
    Read my surf novel!

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