Rust prevention options for humid climates

[kilodawg]

First post here, great forum.

I live in Florida about a mile from the beach so rust has always been a concern of mine and has had me seriously question the purchase of an early car.

When I moved here back in '74 it took my '74 911 about 2 years before rust starting appearing in all the usual places. It was garage kept but it still fell victim.

To make a long story short I'm in the process of completing construction on a new 3 car garage and this time I have insulated doors and will have a de-humidifier. I'm still concerned though.... but I've done the deed and have a currently rust-free '73 T arriving in about a week. The car will only be driven rarely, and I'm looking for any advice that can help me provide additional protection.

All help would be appreciated..

[rick2]

Welcome! I got lucky with my current house being the model home as the garage was used as an office for a while so it has an A/C vent. Previous home in Boca, I had installed an a/c vent and return in the garrage. The unit will pull alot of the humidity out. If you are close to the beach there is not much you can do about the salty air other than use one of those car in a bag deals. Whatever you do drive it! If it is going to rust anyhow you might as well enjoy it. How about some pics of your car?!?
Rick

[kilodawg]

I had been thinking about the car in a bag deal but was waiting for someone else to mention it. I'll post pics next week when she arrives.

[Zeke]

Most of the cavities are accessable. Look for the plugs. In the trunk, they are low and slong side the tank. In the rear, they are behing the bumpers. You can flood th interiors of the cavities with body sealing wax. the longitudinals are accessable along the bottom and from under the strike door jamb. If necessary, drill small holes in the front fender wells. Inside the front door jams at the top leads down into the blind A pillar base. And the list goes on.

Here's an an example of such a product, but I have yet to find out how to buy it: Teroson HV350 Cavity Eax

You can lift the corners of the glass seals and apply the stuff there, too. Also in the door bottoms, again accessable through the drain holes at the bottom of the door. The edge of the trunk lid and deck lid have foam in them, a bad thing. That, too, can be saturated over time. The rest is, as they say, topographical. Get the treatment under moldings, etc. Remove screws and shoot the holes.

There are products for the exposed areas as well. Tectyl 553 is similar to the factory coatings and I suspect this is the same stuff: http://www.carwell.com/products.html Spray cans are available for DIYr's.

And then theres Aervoe: http://www.aervoe.com/Merchant2/merc...duct_Code=6013. I like this stuff the best.