Early rear deck grille rebuild

[adam912]

OK, you guys who've rebuilt your early grilles:

I have a '66 with the original 6 post grille. The expanded aluminum panel inside the grille is falling apart. The expanded material is easy to get, but how do I do a correct replacement? I just went to strip out the old stuff, and it appears to be riveted into the frame. Is there an acceptable-looking replacement for these rivets? I hate like heck to drill out this 40-year-old setup unless I know there's a good way to replace it.



thanks!
Adam912.Out.
'66 912 hotrod, 480K miles, 2.2L of lightweight Type 4 goodness!

[preS]

I also have to restore my grill, does any one have a source for the t-shaped studs that hold the grill to the rear deck lid?

Thanks

Richard

[ttweed]

The expanded material is easy to get

Do you have a source for the exact size expanded metal? I have searched high and low, and have not been able to find the exact same mesh anywhere. All of the readily available expanded metal sheets in both inch and metric sizes that I have found are either smaller or bigger mesh--the open diamonds are NOT the same size as my original grille mesh. I would love to hear where you found the right size. Did you have to buy an entire sheet? If so, I would be happy to buy some of the extra material if you have some left over-- I just need a 9" x 36" piece to bond into my R-look FRP decklid.

Thx,
TT

[adam912]

Tom, look at www.mcmastercarr.com, part number 9305T59. It looks darn close. Not cheap--$110 for a 48x48 piece in aluminum.

Myself, I'm thinking of going with stainless woven screen, #9226T132. I've seen race cars use this, and I think this is maybe what Zimmermann used on his beautiful red car. Should make a nice contrast behind a black grille.

cheers
Adam

[Bobs 67S]

Adam, the rivets are two sides, rod and case, squeesed together. If your gently pry them they will seperate and if they are not overly crushed you can even reuse them. These, at one time, were a comon rivet item at the hobby/craft shops, and leather shops like Tandy.

Let me know about the expanded metal from McMaster- Stainless or Alum. If someone would like to share the cost of a 48" x 48" sheet - I'm open to the idea.

In my notes are a very cryptic AGS 1-8X36 Medium Woven Screen mesh S/S and AGS 1-4X36 Welded course. Is this anything like the screen for the grilles?

[Gearbox]

I also have to restore my grill, does any one have a source for the t-shaped studs that hold the grill to the rear deck lid?

Thanks

Richard

The T studs are the same as the ones used on your bumper deco. You have to drill out the rivets holding the steel strips that the studs mount into. I just can't find the correct looking rivets to do the job yet and think the pop rivets wouldn't look right. Let me know if you findd any, Good luck Allan

[Bobs 67S]

Richard,

the T bolts are stocked at Stoddard's at about $8 each.

I have been seeing the use of a small stainless thumb screw (US) thread with a slightly ground head - flattened to the approx. thickness and a hole drilled through the head. The stainless will be less likely to fail from over tighening or vibration/wear than the aluminum.

This is (was cad plated and yes it rusted). We couldn't figure why there were rust stains on a white lid when all the stock hardware is Aluminum.

[ttweed]

Tom, look at www.mcmastercarr.com, part number 9305T59. It looks darn close.

I went thru their catalog awhile ago, and that particular product is a flattened mesh with bigger openings, which doesn't match the mesh on my '67 grille. The closest matching product I could find was the raised mesh 9305T61 which is only $47.18 for 4'x4', but the diamond opening is still .375" x .937", while my grille mesh is closer to 1/4" x 1/2" (.250 x .500) opening.

I found a smaller mesh at this company, Marco Specialty Steel, which they call 3/16" .032 aluminum mesh, which has a diamond opening of 0.166" x 0.437", which is closer, but actually a bit too small.

At the Niles Expanded Metals site I found a "D500" product which is the correct size opening, but seems to come only in carbon steel. I have emailed them to see if it is available in aluminum, or stainless, but have yet to receive a reply.

If I can find the right product, I would split a sheet with you if you're interested, Bob, or am open to hearing about any sources with an exact match.

TT

[Paul Schooley]

Perhaps our European brothers might know of a better source closer to the factory spec if not the same. Somebody over there supplied this stuff.

[Gearbox]

Richard,

the T bolts are stocked at Stoddard's at about $8 each.

I have been seeing the use of a small stainless thumb screw (US) thread with a slightly ground head - flattened to the approx. thickness and a hole drilled through the head. The stainless will be less likely to fail from over tighening or vibration/wear than the aluminum.

This is (was cad plated and yes it rusted). We couldn't figure why there were rust stains on a white lid when all the stock hardware is Aluminum.

Part number is 901-505-155-20 and Stoddard has them for a buck a piece.