Help price this 71E

[Mark Wilson]

Can you guys help value this car? I'm looking at it Saturday if weather permits. He's aksing $11K

71 911E coupe
third owner
some documentation
180K miles with undocumented rebuild @ 100K, some smoke @ startup but otherwise good
original motor/trans
original Sepia, but now Bahia red, decent driver paint
good panel gaps
couple rust bubbles on one door and one on front lid - clean otherwise
RS front fglass bumper
Rear bumper "update"
Carrera tail
tan interior, seats need recover, carpet needs replaced, new door panels installed without pockets, new dash
aftermarket stereo
AC with compressor removed

Goal would be to take back to original with sepia paint. Not a complete restoration, but an honest/clean driver. Thanks

[pu911rsr]

Depends on if chassis is rust free and condition of interior. Paint and wheels will cost you 12K. I would keep shopping if your goal is a nice correct E. If you want a decent driver car might be OK.
Phil

[runsub5]

It sounds like your goal is to restore the car to originality. If it is, I think the price maybe a bit high. You will be investing a lot of time and money. I would be looking for an E that doesn't require so much work unless you enjoy and are capable of doing most of it yourself.

[W Scott Shores]

Make sure the rust is superficial and hasn't spread out into structural parts of the car. Like Phil said, it will cost you a good chunk of change to replace the new bits and bring her back to original. From what I've seen in the market, a nice honest driver '71E will cost about $25k. If everything else checks out (motor, rust), you ought to try to buy it for less than $10k.

[berettafan]

i would suggest a FAR FAR better option is the 73.5T advertised on this board at $20k. you will blow through $9k on that red car so fast your head will spin.

I am surprised when i hear people talk so casually about a 'few rust bubbles' in non structural places. this is the first step on the road to a full strip/repaint and the car might as well have been left under a pigeon roost for 5 years.

[Mark Wilson]

Guys,
Thanks for the replies so far. I'm well versed in looking for trouble spots and have access to a good quality, inexpensive repaint. Plus, I'll do most of the wrenching. That T is nice, but I want an E for personal reasons. This one is local, so I can put eyes on it and drive. Adding in $10K to this car doesnt bother me if I buy it right. I'm looking to refresh, not restore one.
Thanks

[Paul Schooley]

Although evil bay has done weird things to the prices of cars like these, even though you could find a lower priced E if very patient, this one looks like a pretty good car IF you're looking for a driver. For restoration, or in fact even semi-restoration, it's only good if the structure has zero rust or very, very little. I've been down this exact road with my 71T...before I found the S Registry. What I spent to become just road worthy was a small fortune...the equivalent of that $20K car mentioned above.

[YTNUKLR]

I paid $10k for my car not even running. The car was semi-apart (interior out) and complete, but the fact that I could inspect every inch of the metal work, prod and assure myself the car had a perfect body, as well as a good original color (blue), was enough to make me pull the trigger. Most people would probably say $10k is pretty high, might be, however I found it worth it. If it is worth it to you, go for it. Be aware that every little thing on these cars adds up very quickly. I embarked on a "refresh" and now I am definitely in "restoration" territory. But, it's fun to work on the car and get ideas, and it's only money in the long run, screw college . I'll probably have it forever.

[Mark Wilson]

Thanks for the responses. Hopes are high that rust is a minor issue. I'm not willing to to a rustoration just now. I'll update after I take a look.

[joetiii]

I bought a 69 E Targa with a rusted HL bucket, some spots by the Targa bar and a bubble in the lower fender. After the car got stripped I found three more spots that required attention. Under the door sills, rear window channel and under the left directional. They all required small metal patches to restore. And like Scott, I'm glad I have been able to check out the entire body for weak spots. Lets face it, these cars are over 30 years old and constructed of basic steel. They are going to rust through at some point. (at least more easily in the northeast). I'd rather pay a discounted price up front and sink the money into it rather than spend more $ now with the understanding that at some point in the future I WILL have to deal with corrosion. Your price sounds OK to me with your understanding that it will require quick money to bring it to your personal satisfaction of restoration.