What brake pads to use on the track?

[MJHanna]

The car currently has Pagid “sports/ street pads”. I'm still using the stock S caliper, etc, these pads suck. I was thinking about going back to like the old Kool Carbon (KFP) but not sure if the Pagid orange Rs 44 would work better as I have no back ground using them. I’m not worried about the street just the track….

[Chuck Miller]

Uh Oh...

Just put the Padig Sport/Street pads on my car (SC fronts/stock rears) for this coming weekend's POC event in the infield at CA. Speedway. My field tests (up in the hills) have gone pretty good so far... Will let you how Sunday goes.

Before this I've run the aggressive numbered street pads from Minex or Textar with REAL good results...


What exactly is your complaint about the Pagids ?

Cheers,

[JohnT]

I use Orange pads on all 4 corners of the race car. Of course it only weighs 1900 lbs. If your car is much heavier, you may want to consider "Blacks". My Orange pads take one lap to get hot (isn't that what the pace lap is all about??), until then there's not too much stopping power and a whole lot of darting about.

I tried a set of KFP's and found them very spongy. I took them out and went back to the Oranges. When I removed the KFP's they were "chunking" or "pitting" as though they hadn't been properly bedded yet I had spent about 1/2 hour at PIR following the KFP bedding instructions.

When you read the Pagid pad bedding instructions, you will see that they caution you against using Pagid's on rotors that have had other pads. Something about the different resins used to make the pads that are burned out of the pad and into the rotor during the bedding process. I ignored the advice when I went back to Pagids, but don't know if I would want to promiscuously swap between Pagid and non-Pagid pads.

I'm running stock '67 vented rotors and (iddy-bitty) calipers front and rear. The Pagid Orange Pads last me about 12 races, but then I toss them when they get down to about 3/8" of pad material. Actually when you view a used pad from the
end, there will be a grey-white line around the pad. This marks the greatest penetration of the surface temperature into the pad. When that line touches the backing plate (or is no longer visible) the full temperature is reaching the plate and thus being transfered to the caliper piston and brake fluid. Unless you have installed Sherwood's titanium brake shields, serious fade arrives moments later.

johnt

[MJHanna]

Uh Oh...



What exactly is your complaint about the Pagids ?

Cheers,

I think they feel spoongy without ever really biting hard when pushed on the track. The amount of grab going into a corner was less than I would have liked. As these cars are momentum cars I don’t want to have to stay on the brakes any more than needed but found I was having to brake earlier than I wanted to make up for the pads.

[MJHanna]

I use Orange pads on all 4 corners of the race car. Of course it only weighs 1900 lbs.
johnt

John I'm 2080 with 1/2 tank gas. Stock 69S brakes,Ft and rear, sloted rotors. I think I'm close enough to your weight to try the Orange.

Thanks for the info.

Mark

[ErVikingo]

I don't know what the shop throws in my car but they work superbly...

[Kjell]

I've had very good luck with Hawke Blue pads in the past when I was racing a 914/6. It is very important to "bed" in brake pads before use. Also you might
consider going to "A" calipers in place of you Al calipers if your class rules
allow it.