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Thread: Hood Latch Adjustment

  1. #11
    So many questions, so few answers....
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    rubber snubbers too

    take a look at the rubber stops at the outter corners of the hood. If these are not set properly, they will not provide some of the pressure that is needed to keep the hood firmly latched or they may be extending too far and preventing the hood latch from making complete contact.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    1967 911S Coupe
    1991 944S2 Coupe

    Past projects:
    1967 912 Coupe
    1969 911T Coupe
    1985.5 944 SR Coupe

  2. #12
    I got a "saftey" cable to hide "just in case" the regular one quits. Basically a 1/8 inch S/S cable with a loop held by a crimped ferrel. I saw one on an old 356 and thought it couldn't hurt in a 911 application either. Try getting in after the cable breaks on one of those is...

    Tom
    Early S Registry #235
    rgruppe #111

  3. #13
    Senior Member zenithblue71T's Avatar
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    Well, my trunk was opening at speed and rather than clean out the latch mechanism, I moved the pin over, ever so slightly to align to the center of the latch hole. Now my frunk won’t open. It pops up when I pull the cable but only a CM or so. I can’t get my fingers in there. I had my wife pull the cable while I jiggle the hood but no dice. Any advice how to open a stuck hood?
    James Hurst #1638
    R Gruppe #514
    911T with 2.2S Ps and Cs, Solex grind Cams and PMO 40mm

  4. #14
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    you might get lucky.... i have had this happen and because it "opens" a little bit, you can push down on say the passenger side and the driver side of the hood lifts a little... what you can try is "rocking " this from side to side and it might release.... p.s. if it does not just open after a few good "rocking" you can get a little more exuberant and even cuss and swear a bit....

  5. #15
    Senior Member zenithblue71T's Avatar
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    Thanks! That worked. I grabbed the right side and yanked left and it popped open. Phew! I cleaned the latch mechanism with wd40 and realigned the pin to where it was before. Now to see if the frunk continues to pop open at speed!
    James Hurst #1638
    R Gruppe #514
    911T with 2.2S Ps and Cs, Solex grind Cams and PMO 40mm

  6. #16
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    wd 40 does not last very long. in El Cerrito on san pablo ave. near sketchers there is a bait and tackle store that sells corrosion x. That stuff last years . EASY used to sell it....

  7. #17
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    I have the same problem, but I think the catch is a bit worn. Does anyone know of someone who just makes the catch part?

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    Thanks

    Paul

  8. #18
    Senior Member ejboyd5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zenithblue71T View Post
    Thanks! That worked. I grabbed the right side and yanked left and it popped open. Phew! I cleaned the latch mechanism with wd40 and realigned the pin to where it was before. Now to see if the frunk continues to pop open at speed!
    Out of sheer peskiness it will continue to stick as an admonishment if you insist on calling it a "frunk."

  9. #19
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    paul ... if you think you know what it should look like.... weld the piece and reshape.. if you have welding capabilities you can do this faster than trying to order a piece.
    i dont know if that picture shows much ware?? above normal ware...
    P.S. before you start, make a perfect paper template of exactly what you now have, Then when you weld and grind you can compare to exactly what you started with.
    Last edited by bob joyce; 01-18-2021 at 10:15 AM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    just a universal comment .... the pin that you screw in and out to adjust the closing Hight does not turn on a perfect axis .... it wobbles ... so it strikes the locking plate in different areas even though you have not moved the upper pin plate location.... this can be useful if you are aware.

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