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Thread: Hood Latch Adjustment

  1. #31
    That looks like enough latch to retain the pin. Did you center the pin?
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  2. #32
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    do every thing that Ed says.... that is the correct procedure..
    but, looking at the latch and the capture piece, even though it looks like it might be close enough to center ..... it may also not be close enough .... just a millimeter or two more from were you have it could make the difference ...... and as Ed says ,.... is the pin centered ...

  3. #33
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    I believe the pin is centered. But now I am going to have to do the clay/remove the spring procedure. Fortunately a good opportunity to break out the borescope and swear at it for a bit too.

    I might be fine with the painter's tape too. Keeps me honest after spending a bit too much in the offseason to fix some of the aesthetic issues the car had.

    The irony is that the lid popped a hot second after I took that photo with the tape, and I pulled over, tightened the male end down a few turns to be ultra-tight (i.e. no play at all when fully closed) and it made it all the way home without issue on a not insignificant ride (down rt 7 from Canaan to Lime Rock, with a subsequent diversion on some poorly paved backroads because I was enjoying myself too much...if you know the area from visits to LRP). I don't know if it was the tape, or the repositioned pin.

    In any case, as ever, thanks for your comments. I'll post my findings for posterity.
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    '71 911 T Targa "Rick White"
    '71 911 E "Karen"
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  4. #34
    Senior Member bob joyce's Avatar
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    Just for grins .... take another look at the latch. with your fingers grab at the end of the wire and jiggle it closely observing if the latch piece moves ever so closer towards the center....
    The reason i mention this is because my cars latch piece "moves" that way.

  5. #35
    Screwing the pin in for "no movment" in the latch is the opposite of what the latch requires. A over-tight closing causes the poping opening action when the car flexes. Back off the pin by two 1/2 turns, test if pop open happens again increase by two additional 1/2 turns. (What's the pins thread pitch 1mm or so? 2 half turns = 1mm - 4 half turns = 2mm play). (The rubber stop are for hood alignment to the fenders - if you don't want to play with the pin as a "test" screw in the rubber stops a full turn each - drive the car to verify the pin length is the item needing attention).

    Note the pin may have been bent in the last 50 years- use the other suggestions to verify pin wobble is not moving the pin from center on it's hole. A half a turn will double the movement of a bent pin, two half tuns will more than likely put the pin back to the angle prior to movement. The painters tape covering the hole and lowering the hood to make an light dimple impression on the tape has been the most effective method I've used.

    We have all done the "it's not staying closed" and make that same "Tight is good -Tighter must be better" mistake.

    Hope you get your latch to work.
    Last edited by Bobs 67S; 04-16-2021 at 05:43 AM.
    Bob
    Early S Reg #370

  6. #36
    Senior Member Haasman's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob. Learned something there.
    Haasman

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  7. #37
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    So I think the key was following Ed's initial advice with the bottom latch and having a "snug" setting for the top pin. At some of the longer pin settings there was play in the trunk when it was fully closed. Now, only the slightest play, but it isn't impossible to close.

    I confirmed the pin was centered via the painter's tape. Figured I'd pass along the borescope photos. Shook it down with a decent ~50 miles today including some dirt roads and getting a bit sloppy with the back end

    In the event anyone wanted to see the hot action of the hood latch. I have a video too, but wouldn't want to offend anyone by posting it.

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    I'll still be taping it on the race track and a roll of the tape shall live in the back footwell. Thanks all.
    Last edited by RickWhite; 04-17-2021 at 04:44 PM. Reason: correct typo.
    MBR #3926
    '71 911 T Targa "Rick White"
    '71 911 E "Karen"
    '70 S/T
    '16 CD
    '10 E61 "Vomit Comet"

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