Distributor

[Zithlord]

Engine 2,2S, original ignition system.

I had corrosion inside my distributor, and had to take out the internals for cleaning. After cleaning the car started, but I let it run only a few seconds, so no way of telling how correct/wrong points etc are adjusted.

If you look at the pictures, should I change both points and rotor? I cleaned to contact surfaces of the points with very fine sandpaper. The cap look brand new.

How do I adjust the points? I have not moved the distributor from its original position on the engine(could not get it out and did not dare to put in too much force in removing it)

Are these parts available?

Thanks
John

[304065]

Yes, points and a new rotor and cap are freely available. The rev-limiting rotor is somewhat expensive.

Removing the distributor is very simple, you remove the distributor cap and turn the engine manually with a wrench on the fan pulley nut (clockwise only) until the rotor lines up with the notch in the distributor body and the Z1 mark lines up with the notch in the blower housing. This way, you have established that the engine is set to TDC #1 on the compression stroke. (The reason you have to line up both distributor and crank is if you just do the crank, it could be pointing to Z1 when cylinder #4 is firing- the distributor turns at half crank speed)

OK, got that? Now make absolutely sure the area around the distributor is free of debris, you don't want anything falling in the engine.

Now take a 13mm wrench and remove the nut that holds the clamp to the case. There should also be one or two washers, remove these also. If you don't remove them, Murphy will ensure they fall into the case through the distributor hole.

Now pull the distributor out. It may take a little wiggling and effort, but it should come loose without trouble.

It's important not to turn the engine while the distributor is out.

Now inspect and rebuild the distributor as you normally would.

The points are set with the distributor installed. Disconnect the wires on the faston tab to the CDI. Connect a multimeter to the tab and to ground, on the ohms setting.

With a long standard screwdriver, loosen the points enough so they slide on the plate, but not enough so the screw falls out. Loosen the distributor clamp screw (the one perpendicular to the shaft) with a 10mm wrench. You should be able to freely rotate the distributor. Now insert a feeler gauge in the points gap (0.012-0.016") and slide the points sideways against the rubbing block, tighten the screw. Congratulations, you just set the gap and the dwell. This might take a few tries to get it right.

Now turn the distributor gradually until the points open, you can tell because the multimeter will go from zero ohms to infinite ohms. When the meter needle deflects, tighten the distributor clamp. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CLAMP. You just set static timing to TDC.

Now remove all tools, put the cap back on and start the car and observe timing with a timing light, adjust by loosening the clamp with the 10mm and set timing. The more important setting is 6000 rpm advance, don't rev the engine too much without a load on it and whatever you do, don't get your necktie caught in the whirling fan!

Good luck!

[Zithlord]

Thanks a lot for taking your time writing Paul!

John

[Zithlord]

Can someone tell me what kind of distributor I have(the one in the picture)?

the only writing I can find on it are:

0 231 159 007
JFOR 6

EDIT: found it in the Pelican shop(not in the parts manual...) its Bosch


John

[Gumby]

Neck Tie?

[Steve@Rennsport]

Can someone tell me what kind of distributor I have(the one in the picture)?

the only writing I can find on it are:

0 231 159 007
JFOR 6

EDIT: found it in the Pelican shop(not in the parts manual...) its Bosch


John

John,

Thats an "S" distributor; 2.0 & 2.2.