Lightweight Psuedo R Decklid Grill

[bob tilton]

Sometimes (on a very rare occasion) people ask me about my decklid grill and I feel that I often fail in my written communication on how to make one. Since I recently had the grill off to fine tune the fit I took the opportunity to photograph it.
I first saw this grill on Thornton's Emory built 912R and loved it. So I made one which I will call Version 1.0. Then I saw one on Brody's Emory built R Targa and this time I documented the details which would become version 2.0. I would later see where Emory got the idea from a period photo taken in the early 70s. I was copying Emory and Emory was copying the way it was done "back in the day".

[bob tilton]

The grill can be made from a 3 bar grill that is basically turned upside down. You need to remove the all the alum rails and shave the side bars. It's very straight forward BUT there is a lot of fine tuning to get it to fit.
Version 1.0 is the quick and dirty grill. It works but 2 things worth mentioning which lead to Version 2.0.
First, the screen sags in between the bars and doesn't contour the curve of the decklid. Second, you need to use large washers to "catch" screen to mount. The screen will break over time so you have a sagging corner (or two or three or all).

[bob tilton]

To make Version 2.0 which contours the decklid much better and will not break away at the corners you need to keep the side bars and two alum rails.
- Remove all but the top and bottom rails.
- Cut the extra alum rail that goes beyond the outside bars.
- Remove the bars and shave about 3/16" from top to bottom (marked with yellow line in pic on original bar). The grill will not fit in the recessed area of the decklid if you don't do this.
- Cut away extra material (marked in green) to give you enough play to mount bolt. You need this play as you will see if you don't do this - it won't line up to the existing small hole.
- If you can get away with not cutting the area marked in red then you will not have to JB Weld it back together like I had to do. These parts will separate and you will have a sagging corner which defeats the purpose of keeping the rails for a nicer contoured fit. This is why my grill came off to fine tune the fit. You'll just need to fine the right mounting hardware to save you from the JB Weld phase.

[bob tilton]

In this pic you can see how I had to JB Weld this back together (in red) because I cut the section (in yellow) in order to fit a nylon nut. As soon as I cut this the parts separated. If you can avoid cutting the part in yellow and fit fastening hardware you will save a lot of time in fabrication.

[bob tilton]

When you're done with the bars it should look like the pic below. Note the radius corners (in yellow).

[bob tilton]

On the center bar, I softened the hard edges that contact the body. Note the sanded back to metal areas.

[bob tilton]

I chose polished button heads to finish off the look on the exterior. You will need longer ones for the center bar. Also, use neoprene washers on the underside and nylon washers on the topside. At this point you will just need to fine tune the fit with some final grinding. Don't forget to use masking tape to protect decklid and hinges - the fit is tight and you will be sliding the grill in several times...trust me. Also, you may need to drop your coil about 3/16" so that it doesn't rub against the rail.
That's it - very straight forward...just a lot of fitting.

[bob tilton]

A view from the rear:

[Neunelfer]

Pretty damn slick... and the car is stunning Bob.

This has to hit the "Favorite Tech Article" thread.

[Richard]

I want to give Bob Tilton credit for advice on the grill I used on my '67S Rally car. The picture is not totally clear but you will get the idea. I did a couple of my own mods but Bob should get the credit for the idea. See pics.
Thanks Bob.
Rich