Show me satanic details...please.

[lbpa18]

@Jury, Combine basic tools, simple materials, a creative mind, and a high level of hand-skill and the results are exceptional. Nicely done. No punishment.

[Jury]

Chris,
Who made your tubing bender and what size tubing is that? Do they make other size dies?
I need it to make more custom trombone oil coolers, and a custom bike rack for my wife's TI, Carbon Fiber, Aluminum, and Magnesium bikes. Most with Campi Record. I spend money on cars and she spends money on bikes riding all the European mountains.
Chris

Tubing is 1/2". I picked up a pipe bender on Ebay that came came with various dies...I made a quick bracket to hold it in the vice...It's nothing special, but I did have to make some shims to hold the tubes more snug in the die.....Pipe bending vs Tube bending etc etc . It was a case of measure twice, eyeball thrice and see what happens

BTW...Love a campi record groupset !

[Jury]

Nice work there Chris on the racks. What did you use for those joint inserts on the roof rack? That’s 1/2” conduit I believe for the frame?

Yes...1/2" EMT tubing/conduit from Home Depot. Weldable (after sanding off the coating) and cheap enough to experiment with. Inserts are some thread-bar I had lying around. Not sure on actual size, but snug enough to turn into the EMT I/D and get a mechanical lock before welding

[911 TR 68]

I’ve been doing this about 10 years now. When ever I’m installing light weight Amber engine fiberglass shrouding, I was confronted with how to attach it. Doing restorations I saw the way the factory did it and decided to try another way. I got countersunk soft 1/8”x1/8” rivets and a rivet squeezer, along with 6mm weld nuts. I drill out, and plate the weld nuts to modify them into anchor nuts, then fit and install.

Very nice finish with the rivets to hit. I use a different M6 plate I have in stock but weld nut is great too

[sithot]

Very nice.
Be sure to share photos of the finished product!

[Chris Pomares]

Things are starting to take shape under the hood of the 69 912 POLO car.
There is a 200F degree BAT thermostat in the middle of the crossover oil lines. The SC thermostat at the passenger rear wheel well opens at 180 degrees. The oil will go forward from there then through the front passenger side cooler. The BAT thermostat will send the oil back to the rear tell the oil temp gets to 200 degrees. At that point the BAT thermostat will open and route the oil to the drivers side cooler. If this works as well as I hope, I’ll do the same to my car. My car the oil sits at 180 to 190 degrees on a hot day which is fine. 200 to 215 would be better. But on a cool or cold day it sits at maybe 140 to 160. Too cool. At those temps the heater struggles to warm the inside of the car, and the water vapors in the oil can't boil out even with lower boiling points at higher elevations here in Colorado.
As the hood is of super light weight aluminum, (thinner than 16 gauge) it needs more support when lifted to fuel up. So we supper sized a 914 race car hood support. The support snaps in at the back end of the hood when the hood is down. It snaps in on the backside of the strut bar when the hood is up. The support piece is connected to the middle of the hood front to back to not over stress the hood when it’s opened.
This has been a fun project.

[Ralph]

I don't think that I have posted a picture of this before but how about a volt meter and low oil pressure warning light made from a 912 fuel gauge and a 924S voltmeter fitted into the clock aperture?

[lbpa18]

#196: "Harry,
Based on the deep and clear reflection in your hood it looks like you need to remove a link to take up the slack in your garage door opener. [/QUOTE]

Porsche Husband that sees that photo thinks, "What a cool car".
Porsche Wife that sees that photo thinks, "And finish that ceiling! If you guys spent as much time on the house as you do thinking about your cars, this house would be finished."

[patrick911]

Although I've been tracking my Martini 2.8 RSR replica project in great detail elsewhere, I like to show four of my recent favorite details on the car here.
1) hood with balsa wood strips glued in resin and FT3 120l fuel cell with dry breaks
2) dash in progress with custom 10k tachometer as per 917, so-called 'idiot-light' for alternator failure, 2 switches for the CDIs and old-fashioned Dymo labels as per original.
3) detail of the separate brake hat and rear (floating) brake disc with the Zuffenhaus RSR/917 brake caliper.
4) painted Martini logo on the door

Attachment 633521

[bob joyce]

very nice......