hood badge help

[EARLY911ZOO]

anyone know how to remove and install posts on an early badge?
one pin was so chewed up it broke in half, the other isnt pretty but the badge is beautiful...if I can swap with a cheap badge's good posts, I could save an otherwise pristine patina orange bar hood badge

[69Sman]

Richard, if you figure it out, let me know. I've had the same problem a few times, and never came up with a good (lasting) solution....

[Chuck Miller]

Richard,

This is what I've found....

These were fairly low temp soldered... but not so low you can use an iron.

You can use a small butane torch, or oxy/acc set at a VERY low flame/temp.

DO NOT KEEP THE FLAME ON LONG - ONLY ENOUGH TO MELT THE JOINT

You might get away with using whats left on the badge to re-solder, if you need more use a cheap high lead content 'craft solder'

If anyone has a better way please jump in....

Hope this helps

Cheers

[EARLY911ZOO]

Thanks, I'll give it a try... and report back!

[NickP]

I had a repop hood badge and I twisted the post off when I was installing it. Many choice words came forth, believe me. I used a gray colored marine epoxy that looks putty. The catalyst is liquid and when combined it was like a thick paste, and sorta moldable. A little dab and wa-la, better than before.

Nick

[70SATMan]

I've done this. If you are not experienced soldering with a butane torch then I do not recommend doing it yourself. I wouldn't try this with an iron. It is very easy to overheat and expand the enamel on the front. With years of UV exposure, the enamel is weakened and will have microscopic cracking even if you can't see it by eye. Heat up the metal too much, it expands, the enamel does not and the next thing you know it is falling out.

If you have done a bit of this type of work then it is not that difficult and can be done with care. Get one of the small craft type butane torches with the pencil flame. It can be done with a regular hand held butane torch though.

You will first need to secure the badge flat so that it doesn't move. Apply new paste flux to the pin and just where the old solder line is. Apply the heat only to the top half of the pin. Do not aim for the solder joint. Use a hardwood stick (clay modelling tool works well) to put light pressure on the pin periodically when heating while watching the solder line. With old solder it is sometimes difficult to see when you've reached the melting point.

Once the pin is off, clean it up with an acid brush and isopropyl alcohol. Take some fine grit emory cloth and "sand" the edge of the pin base but, not the bottom of the base. Now, you can then re-tin the base of the pin with clean flux and new solder. Allow a little build up of solder, allow it to cool and set it aside. One point where I disagree with Chuck is with the soft solder. Use silver solder. You will need the strength in the new joint.

On the badge itself I recommend putting clean flux on the area where the pin came off and heating just until you see the solder go shiny. Allow it to cool completely as well. With a soft acid brush clean the badge and the pin with alcohol again. Apply new flux to the badge and set the pin down in place. Apply heat to the top half of the pin again. When you see the solder melt, use light pressure on the top of the pin to press it down into the melt. Pull the heat away, hold until the solder sets up and Voila! After it cools down completely, clean again with alcohol to remove all of the flux.

Remember, the key is to only apply as much heat as is just needed. Practice on the donor badge acouple of times. Remove, install, remove, install to get the feel before doing this on the good badge.

Very satisfying when you save one of these from certain death.

[Chuck Miller]

For best and lasting results I agree with Michael.....

[denson]

The epoxy glue works fine. I have done it 4 times and it has not failed. Please make sure it is fully cured as you would not want it to glue to the hood.

[Tom F.]

I got lasting results with Loctite "Depends" adhesive.