Quality Paint

[jetdriver21]

Still looking for a great shop to do my bare metal paint in a few months. I have heard of a few of the paints that the "top quality" shops use, but I dont think I know them all.

What are some of the higher quality paints for the early 911s?

I have heard of Glasurit being one of the best. I have also heard great things about Sikkens, especially their color matching system. Where does BASF fit into the mix?

I am trying to use this to determine the better shops.

[robmog]

i believe glasurit is now owned by BASF.

[jan]

belive me, there is no big difference in quality betewen the big manufactures.
its all up the the man who hold the spray gun
we painted a 911s this week for a member of this forum, and since it was Leasonal (albert blue) from factory we did use that.
all painters have their own favorite, but its just because they "know" their produkt, so my advice is to find a good shop what ever produkts they use.

[Zithlord]

Its my car Jan painted Albert Blue. I bought the car red from Bobby Smith. Will post some pics soon.

John

[curtisaa]

belive me, there is no big difference in quality betewen the big manufactures.
its all up the the man who hold the spray gun
we painted a 911s this week for a member of this forum, and since it was Leasonal (albert blue) from factory we did use that.
all painters have their own favorite, but its just because they "know" their produkt, so my advice is to find a good shop what ever produkts they use.

I do agree with the man holding the gun, however: 2-cars , same painter, glasurit vs PPG , difinite difference. Hands down ! Glasurit wins...

[jan]

we have experimeted with different paint producers, we have used Sikken for many years, we did test RM, glaurit, speis hecker and PPG, and if there is difference its the viscoity of the clearcoat lacker.
We did some work on a 550maranello and that had PPG from factory, some 348 i had did use glasurit.

My point is that all painters have their favorit line of paint products, i know this because i have 4 painters and all had their opinon

there is more importent criterias to choose a bodyshop than witch paint they use.

for us we never use water during the sanding or any of the prosess. i have seen so many cars with mikroblistring caused of water.
many skip bake the primers, hating cost money.....
what primers they use on bare metal?
do they have attetion for details?
do they listen to their clients instructions?

http://mototechnique.com/250GTO_p1.php

here is useful link, and they do it how it should be done

[WM711]

The key is prep work. Time consuming, sometimes painfully slow prep work. Paint is the easy part. Depending on how much you want to spend, and how fast you want the car done, I would go with a restoration shop, not a commercial body shop. You will spend more money, and it will take much longer, but the quality of the finished product will be vastly different. You can dissassemble car and strip the paint yourself, which can add up to considerable savings. Obviously, I would also go to a restorer familiar with early 911s if possible. One last thing, I have never done any 911 which came in under estimates. Just my opinion... Congrats on finding a car. Bill

[FHernand]

It's all in the prep work and the hand holding the gun. I have sprayed with high end paints and can't really say that a paticular paint is better than the other. I will say as a painter, there are paints that lay down better than others...but even then, I can control this by PSI, speed, and high end reducers. I would encourage you to find a good painter that can personally do both high quality prep work and paint. Most body shops will have the painter only paint and a separate person to do the prep work. Best wishes on your choice. I know it's a very expensive process so take your time and ask for references and examples. Regards, Freddie

[Soterik]

Did you follow up on my lead to you?

eric

[Sacto S]

The prep work is critical but, the work after the paint has been applied is what really makes it "pop."

The wet sanding, polishing, buffing and waxing are what bring the true depth to the paint. They are also what will keep it that way five-ten years down the line.