Headlights draining battery?

[Sacto S]

OK, I have replaced the alternator and voltage regulator. I have a new Optima battery. I installed H4's. I am also running an MDS unit and a pointless ignition system.

Twice, I have had a system failure where the electrical is just flat drained out. What's going on? Do the H4's pull that much that they could drain my battery while going down the road at 65 mpg? I have been driving the car and actually watched as the turnsignals, headlights and so on become weaker and weaker. That's what happened this morning. After only ten minutes of driving, I pulled into the driveway and the headlights were dead. I shut the car off and the whole thing is dead. Wouldn't even turn the fuel pump.

The first time this happened, I replaced the battery, alternator (upgraded) and voltage regulator. Now I'm at a loss. Do I pull the H4's? I didn't think they would be this big of an issue. Was I wrong?

I'm open for any and ALL ideas you folks can offer!

Very frustrated at this point.

[Mr9146]

This started happening after you put the H4s in? What wattage bulbs are you using?

Also, do you have a stereo or alarm in the car?

[Sacto S]

No alarm and only small Am radio. Bulb sizes? I'll have to double check. I know I didn't go overboard. I knew it might be an issue so I kept the bulb sizes down to a reasonable output.

[Mr9146]

Hmmmm. I would pull the lights back out and look at the plugs ... make sure they're not melted.

Also, are you sure the alternator is charging? Did you use an internal regulator alternator or an external regulator alternator? How many amps is the alternator?

Did the battery have a good charge on it when you put it in? Did you put it in at the same time as the alternator/regulator?

Hmmmm.

Sorry for all the questions...just thinking out loud.

[Sacto S]

And I appreciate any ideas you or others can offer.

Yes, battery was fully charged when it when in.

When from an external regulator to an internal regulator when this happen the last time. That was just over a month ago. I don't recell the out put of the new alternator with the internal regulator. I do recall that it was higher than my old unit with the external regulator.

The two times this has happened, I have been running along just fine. I've made stops and frestarted the car without issues. Then, I turn on the headlights and everything turns to sh&t. The first time it happened I was at the "Headlights on for Safety Area" just north of Salinas. The second time was this morning. I left the house, the turnsignals and headlights were fine. Ten minutes down the road and my turnsignals are getting weaker, I pull off to a side street and the headlights begin to fade almost immediately. I continue on to my friends driveway and now the headlights are gone and no turnsignals. The car is still running at this point. I shut the car off and that's it, it won't start, it won't turnover, it won't even power the fuel pump.

It is like there is a huge straw and something/someone is sucking the power out of the system. The H4s are the only thing I can think of. I've been over the ground connections, traced wires, checked connectors, looked at bulb sockets and so on. I'm stumped.

[rgrimm]

I'd also have to wonder if you won't have wiring problems. I can't believe that even high wattage bulbs would drain a battery in a running car in 10 minutes. And from your description of "normal" drives without the lights, I would guess the wiring to the lights or perhaps the switch, although I don't know why you wouldn't blow a fuse.

Maybe try turning the lights on and, as they dim to the point of nearly going out, start feeling some of the wires...if they're overloaded, they'll be warm.

[HarryD]

You need to do some testing.

Get out your voltmeter (or get one if you do not - The cheap one at Harbor Freight is fine).

1-Measure the voltage at your battery with nothing running (should be about 12 volts);

2-Start your car and rev to get alt light out and measure voltage (should be 13.5-14.5 volts);

3-Increase rpms and note voltage (should be more or less constant)

4-Drop rpms to idle (check volts)

5-Turn on headlights (volts should drop and return to previous reading).

Report you findings.

[Sacto S]

Don't you just hate it when work gets in the way of what's really important?

Thanks!

[Sacto S]

After tracing BAck through several wiring connections and measuring with the volt meter at several points, we found the problem. Or at least I hope we have.

Checked the battery and found it was normal. Ran the car and found it was not receiving any charge at the battery. Started snooping and finally discovered that the previous wrench who replaced the alternator did not connect the small red wire to the back of the alternator. As a result the alternator was not receiving current to create the electrical field necessary to generate power that would then charge the system. We jumped the bad connections and it showed that there was ample current to charge the battery.

Now I need to decide on the best point to draw power for the alternator. Any ideas where this connection would have been made at the factory? It appears that there is a single #12 red wire bringing power to multiple points in the engine compartment. This wire does not seem suited from additional load. Needless to say by now my wiring is not, shall we say, factory. With the addtional connections of the MSD and pointless ignition, is there a need to find another source or to up grade the wire?

$25 for the voltage meter at Sears, $10 worth of clips and wire from Radio Shack, $12 worth of beer for friends....figuring out the freakin' problem.....PRICELESS!

THANKS TO ALL FOR IDEAS AND SUPPORT!

[Sacto S]

Relays are already in place. Working out some high/low beam issues there as well.

I don't think I can use the large red feed into the starter. That one comes from the battery directly to the starter and would send current to the alternatior 100% of the time. I need a feed that is powered via the ignition switch. I'm think of tapping into the feed that powers the fuel pump. Thoughts?

Thank you.