Let there be light!

After replacing my old door pin switches with new ones festooned with new rubber nipple covers, the interior lights would not activatre unless I grabbed the little nipple and gave it a tug (I know what you are thinking and you should be ashamed ). It appeared (key word - appeared) that the nipple's tension against the pin didn't allow it to make contact on the switch. I tried stretching the nipple (sounds kinky) and heating it to stretch it, etc to no avail. So the idea occurred; it has to be the length of switch's throw.

The solution: I removed the switches by removing the nipple and unscrewing the switch. While unscrewing, remember to hold the black pin [technical term: push rod thingy] stationary. Pull the switch out remembering the attachment to the wire makes a slight dog-leg you will need to negotiate through the opening. I fed a sufficient amount of wire out so I could comfortably disconnect the wire from the switch.

I carefully clamped a small portion the switch in a vice to keep it stationary before surgery. I applied some blue masking tape to the push rod thingy to keep it from ejecting across the shop floor during the procedure. There are three retaining clamps for the gizmo [tech term 2] which was/were/could have been/should have been attached to the hot wire. I carefully pried all three clamps off the gizmo. The center-most clamp is seated in a concave impression. I then moved the gizmo forward so the further most clamp from the disk, would now crimp into the concave impression. Now reverse the steps and your dome lights should operate, and cancel, as Ferry intended.

There is now light, and it is good. (and you thought more horsepower was hot)