I an effort to improve the reliability of my '68, I am having the distributor rebuilt (IAE, recommended by PMO--@ a cost of ~$400). After 41 years and 163k miles, it's probably time. Several people have recommended removing the vacuum advance, which can apparently be the source of problems. I am inclined to do so. What are some thoughts/experiences on this? TIA.
Bill G.
1968 911 Ossi Blue coupe...full restoration in process
Done: Engine; transmission; suspension; gauges; wheels; rust repair & primer; brakes; paint
In progress: electrical; the tedious, endless, horrible fastener sorting/plating
EarlyS #718 | RGruppe #437
What vacuum advance? It didn't appear until 1972.
1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen
There's a vacuum solenoid on the side of the aluminum distributor housing with a vacuum hose going to the driver side Weber. An arm from the solenoid is connected to the plate to which the points attach. The plate rotates the position of the points relative to the cam surface of the shaft. This is a vacuum advance mechanism, no? Distributor no. 0-231-169-001
EDIT: It's a '68, which had the air pump for emissions control. Could it be a vacuum retard for idle for emissions control?
Bill G.
1968 911 Ossi Blue coupe...full restoration in process
Done: Engine; transmission; suspension; gauges; wheels; rust repair & primer; brakes; paint
In progress: electrical; the tedious, endless, horrible fastener sorting/plating
EarlyS #718 | RGruppe #437
Bill, I am sorry you are right, I just checked the workshop manual for a smogged 1968 911T and a vacuum retard IS part of the exhaust ignition control system.
As it is only for emissions you should replace it with a centrifugal-only distributor that has been properly curved, or have it rebuilt to make sure the curve is OK. In the old cast iron distributors the springs stretch and the weights rust, causing all manner of problems. Search here for some nice pics of my cast iron distributors done by Ed Fall at Vintage Werks.
1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen
Bill,
A two-part answer:
1. Are you absolutely, irreversibly sure, that the distributor is indeed original to the engine.
2. With a carburated engine you won't need a vacuum advance,.......so off with it. Do not forget however to plug the vacuum ports on your Webers, if that's what'll be retained on the engine. (see pic of carb. body and port(s) in question)
$400.00 for a rebuilding & re-curving (if necessary) sounds right now-a-days. I paid $375.00 to Jerry Woods to have mine done a year and a half ago.
Before it became Ruprecht, my Porsche was a '70 911 T
Paying member No. 895 since 2006
" slavish adherence to originality wasn't for me, because the car wasn't as good as it could be."
Rob Dickinson's response when asked what motivated him to build Singers
Thank you John & John.
Bill G.
1968 911 Ossi Blue coupe...full restoration in process
Done: Engine; transmission; suspension; gauges; wheels; rust repair & primer; brakes; paint
In progress: electrical; the tedious, endless, horrible fastener sorting/plating
EarlyS #718 | RGruppe #437
Bill G. The Blutt Orange 71 has had the vacume disconnected for about 5 years now. As John G stated make sure to plug the vacume on the carbs. For the 2.7 I ended up with about 5 degrees advance for best performance.
Wildcard.
Bill Barnich
R Gruppe Nr.230
Early S Nr.960
71 911T/2.7 Tangarine
73 911?/3.6 work in progress
What's with these rebuild prices, are they charging an extra $200 for plating? I had mine inspected and recurved for $35. Vintage Werks charges $135+ or try Glenn Ring.
DIY: http://www.glenn-ring.com/010/
Bret Davis
1968 911L
Member
I think there is a difference due to shops (like Jerry Woods) vs semi shop/ specialty hobbyist who can do the job as well but have another cost structure.
Richard
Ditto, Ed did my cast iron disty for my '68 a month back, did a great job, search my name for pics.Originally Posted by B D
Don't forget the "porsche" tax applies in many cases.....
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