Elephant Racing front rubber bushing install

[berettafan]

Sorry don't have pics but there really isn't much to see (check out Chuck's vid if you want to see the operation).

Anyways after POR'ing my control arms i did the bushing install. At first it was one of the most miserable failures i have experienced; but then after posting up on the bird and responses from Chuck, etc I came to understand that my pipe clamp wasn't deep enough and i didn't have the bushings centered correctly. The key is to use two people and have the arm in a vice. So i went to HD and bought a 'deep fit' pipe clamp to use. This was the ticket!

Once lined up correctly and lubed with a LOT of liquid soap the operation goes VERY nicely. At first glance the bushings look way short but once squished into place they actually spread out and the fit looks identical to factory.

Using my handy dandy sears digital level ($20 on sale via Craftsman Club recently) i set the angles on the front and rear thingy's (sorry to be so technical) and reinstalled the arms (24hrs later). Very, very nice product and install method.

At $225 they are PRICEY but then so is just about everything that goes between the wheel and the tub on a 911. I considered the other brand bushings which are a whopping $55 however Chuck's claim (supported by video) is that they are a thinner and less dense material that will not work like the factory bushings did. I'm no scientist/chemist/rubberist so i can't comment on the validity but the evidence presented was enough to get me to spend the extra $175 right or wrong.

[70SATMan]

I considered the other brand bushings which are a whopping $55 however Chuck's claim (supported by video) is that they are a thinner and less dense material that will not work like the factory bushings did. I'm no scientist/chemist/rubberist so i can't comment on the validity but the evidence presented was enough to get me to spend the extra $175 right or wrong.

That Video sealed the deal for me on which bushings to order. I'd been agonizing for awhile which route to take...had been leaning towards the polybronze even though it would have been overkill for my use. I'm still planning the larger T bars. I've got Sanders 27s for my rear but, am considering stepping down to 26mm since I'm shaving as much weight in the rear as possible with some mad scientist ideas.

You went to 22s in the front right? What led to your decision? I also don't recall what you chose for the rears. I'm sticking with 21s in the front.

[berettafan]

Went 22/28's. Had been looking for 21/26 but as anybody in the t-bar market now knows they are hard to come buy unless you pony up for sanders hollow. 22/28's were available (sorta; turns out the 22's were 25 rears but i have that resolved now) used so i went with it.

There are other early cars w/ 22/28 bars so it can't be too terrible. We will see. If they are too stiff i'll just switch to something smaller.

[kenikh]

22/28 is not too stiff if you don't overkill the sway bars. I went with 22 sways and 19/26. If ther car ever gets back on the road, I will let you know how it went.

[Brad Davis]

Hi Guys,

I rebuilt my front control arm bushings this weekend. The Elephant bushings and tools were great quality. Here are some pictures of the job.

[Brad Davis]

Some more..

[teenchy]

Here's another thumbs up for the Elephant control arm bushings. I installed these and their spring plate bushings this fall; will be adding their trailing arm and camber plate bushings in the spring.

I've also procured a factory 15mm front sway bar with drop links and would also like to add a factory 15mm rear bar to my to-do list. Thicker torsion bars may be off in the future but I think fresh rubber and sways may be good enough for my humble, street-driven 2.2T.

Ed

[berettafan]

Still happy with mine.

Nice work area Brad, looks very clean and organized!

[Brad Davis]

Thanks Erik! It was a fun job. Had a good excuse to use my P288 factory tool. Not too many chances to do that

Best regards,

Brad

[304065]

Brad, wow, a factory P288!